Ostashkov, Tver region, Russia


Flag of Ostashkov Coat of arms of Ostashkov
A countryRussia
Subject of the federationTver region
Municipal districtOstashkovsky district
BasedXIV century
CoordinatesCoordinates: 57°09′00″ N. w. 33°06′00″ E. long / 57.15° north w. 33.1° east d. (G) (O) (I)57°09′00″ n. w. 33°06′00″ E. long / 57.15° north w. 33.1° east d. (G) (O) (I)
Official site[www.ostashkovadm.ru link]
City with1770
Center height210 m
TimezoneUTC+4
Vehicle code69
OKATO code28 440
Population▼ 18,016 people (2011)
Postcode172730
Telephone code+7 48235
EthnoburyOstashi

Ostashkov is a city (since 1770) in Russia, the administrative center of the Ostashkovsky district of the Tver region. The city is located on the shore of the southern part of Lake Seliger, 190 km from Tver. Population - 18,803 inhabitants (2010; 20.6 thousand according to the 2002 census).

Population

Population

18251833184018471856186318671870188518971910
78527344105028699916310488923310806115921044510736
191719201923192619371939195919701979198920022010
12472917010421129001915819003195422341924380274012066018803

Map

Ostashkov: maps

Ostashkov: photo from space (Google Maps) Ostashkov: photo from space (Microsoft Virtual Earth)

Ostashkov.
Nearest cities. Distances in km. on the map (in brackets along roads) + direction. Using the hyperlink in the distance , you can get the route (information courtesy of the AutoTransInfo website)
1Foam32 (37)SW
2Selizharovo39 (47)SE
3Firovo51 ()NE
4Marevo (Novgorod region)63 (100)Z
5Kuvshinovo65 (76)IN
6Demyansk (Novgorod region)66 (112)NW
7Andreapol75 (81)SW
8Ozerny87 ()NE
9Valdai91 (195)WITH
10Bologoe99 (254)NE
11Vyshny Volochyok100 (200)NE
12Nelidovo105 (249)YU
13Olenino107 (203)YU
14Torzhok113 (126)IN
15Toropets114 (336)SW
16Hill115 (316)IN
17Western Dvina116 (293)SW
18Spirovo117 (180)IN

a brief description of

Located on the Valdai Hills, on a peninsula in the southern part of Lake Seliger (pier), 190 km west of Tver. Railway station.

Ostashkov is a tourism center on lakes Seliger and Verkhnevolzhskoye.

Territory (sq. km): 13

Information about the city of Ostashkov on the Russian Wikipedia site

Historical sketch

In 1371, in a letter from the Lithuanian prince Olgerd to Patriarch Philotheus, Klichen, the most outlying border town of the Moscow principality (in the northwestern part of the island of Klichen, 1 km from the modern city), is mentioned. In 1393, the Novgorod “eager army” ravaged and burned the city of Klichen.

Since 1434 (1477 ??) the Ostashkov villages have been known, on the site of which the Ostashkovskaya (later Iosifovskaya) and Timofeevskaya (later Metropolitan or Patriarchal) settlements arose. According to legend, they were called after the first settler fisherman Evstafy Ostashkovskaya or Ostashevskaya (Ostash, Ostashko - forms of the Orthodox name Evstafy).

In 1528, the hermit monk Nil settled on Stolbny Island, 10 km from Ostashkov. In 1594, Nilova Pustyn was founded on Stolbnoy Island, which later became one of the most visited and richest.

Around the settlements in 1587, due to the danger of a Lithuanian invasion, a fortress was built, called the Ostashkovo town.

In 1626 and 1651-53. New fortifications are being built. The fortress burned in 1676 and 1711 and has not been rebuilt since then.

In the 1760s. Ostashevskaya settlement in the Tver province of the Novgorod province. Since May 28, 1770, Ostashkov has been a city in the Novgorod province, since 1775 - a district town of the Tver governorship (since 1796 - Tver province).

A religious school was opened in Ostashkov in 1751, and a city school in 1772. A theater has been operating since 1805, and a library since 1883. In 1843, the first voluntary fire brigade in Russia was created.

From the end of the 18th century. Leatherworks are developing in the city (a tannery was founded in 1730).

In 1856, in the district town of Ostashkov, Tver province, there were 6 churches, 1360 houses, 205 shops.

Economy

Tannery, sewing software, meat processing plant, brewery and cheese factory, fish factory.

In the Ostashkovsky district, grain crops, flax, and potatoes are grown. Meat and dairy cattle breeding, pig breeding.

Main enterprises

LEATHER, FUR AND FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

LLP "Ostashkovsky tannery"
172750, Tver region, Ostashkov, st.
Rabochaya, 60 Offers:
chrome leather, chrome yuft

Culture, science, education

Museum of Local Lore (since 1889).

10 km from the city in the village of Rogozha there is the Museum of Nature of the Seliger Region.

In 1669, Leonty Telyashin (L.F. Magnitsky), the author of the first Russian textbook on mathematics, was born in the settlement of Trestyanka (now Ostashkov).

Museums, galleries, exhibition halls

Museum of Nature of the Seliger Region 172747, Tver region, Ostashkov, Rogozha village, st.
Telmana, 18 Phone(s): (48235) 4-34-40 Website: https://tvermuzeum.ru/ Ostashkovsky Museum of Local Lore 172735, Tver region, Ostashkov, st. Volodarskogo, 19 Phone(s): (48235) 5-16-46

Architecture, sights

The city stretches along the running line of Lake Seliger. It was built according to a regular plan (drawn up by architect I.E. Starov), approved in 1772, drawn up taking into account the historical layout.

The silhouette of the city is largely determined by the ordinary buildings of the 18th - 19th centuries. and churches. Resurrection Cathedral (1689), Trinity Cathedral (1697), so-called. Town Hall House (1720).

The complex of the Znamensky Monastery (founded in 1673) with the Ascension Cathedral (1730-48). On the island of Zhitny, connected to the city in 1853 by a dam, there is a complex of the former Zhitny Monastery (founded in 1716) with the Smolensk Cathedral (1737-43) and the bell tower (1751), the gate church of St. John the Evangelist and St. Andrew the First-Called (1767-68 ), fraternal cells (1772-79 and 1861-63).

In 1785, the townspeople, in memory of the burnt fortress, installed the so-called fortress on the former city rampart. Valian pillar (chapel-obelisk).

The modern city is developing outside the peninsula.

Population by year (thousands of inhabitants)
18569.2197924.4200520.0201417.1
189710.4198927.4200619.7201516.8
192612.9199226.8200719.4201616.6
193113.1199623.5200819.2201716.3
193919.0199823.1201018.8201816.0
195919.5200022.1201118.1201915.7
196721200121.7201217.7202015.4
197023.4200320.7201317.3202115.2

Story

Known since the 14th century. A letter from the Lithuanian prince Olgerd to the Patriarch of Constantinople Philotheus, dated 1371, mentions Klichen, a border town of the Moscow principality, located on the island of the same name on Seliger. In 1393, Klichen was captured and burned by the Novgorodians. According to legend, after this the only resident of Klichen survived, the fisherman Evstafiy (Ostashko), who moved to the neighboring peninsula south of Klichen - from where the city got its name.

In 1772-1775 - the center of the Ostashkovsky district of the Novgorod province. In 1775, the city and the district were transferred to the Tver governorship (from 1776 - Tver province). During the redevelopment of district towns in the 18th century, it was the new layout of Ostashkov that was taken as a model for other district towns of the Russian Empire (as in 1763, the new regular layout of Tver was recognized as a reference for provincial cities). In 1929-1935 Ostashkov was part of the Western Region, from 1935 to 1990 - the Kalinin Region.

Ostashkov: the city of three ruffs

With the light hand of the Novgorod governor Sivers, the small Seliger town of Ostashkov began to be called the “second Venice” back in the 18th century. Mr. Governor was surprised, of course, not by the Italian chic in that wilderness, but only by the proximity of the lake water to the houses. And we stopped in Ostashkov to be amazed at its ancient regular buildings and fish dishes.

Our first meeting with Ostashkov was in the morning and in transit - we were traveling from Tver, where we lived on vacation, to the source of our native Volga and the Shirkov churchyard. Returning from there in the afternoon, we ended up in Ostashkov, where we spent several hours. To be honest, this town deserves more time - we just didn’t have it. Therefore, we decided to narrow the topic of the walk to civil architecture - this is the most fragile component of any city. Temples are being recreated, but houses are leaving.

Having entered Ostashkov, we headed to the Ukha restaurant because we wanted to have lunch. The establishment has very decent ratings for the quality of its dishes, so we were hoping to eat Seliger fish. Ostashkov even has three silver fish on his coat of arms, whose breed is unknown to us. But since the Ostashes were called ruffs, let’s assume that Ostashkov is a city of three ruffs.

The Ukha restaurant occupies an extension to a five-story building on the Seliger embankment. On the lawn in front of him lies a boat and something else fishing. The hall was empty on the afternoon of a weekday. The surroundings, by the way, are not at all fishing - some strange mixture of pistachio-lilac “Provence”, colorful “Victorianism” and cute amateur designers. The downsides are unhurried service, lack of bread, pale tea even after 20 minutes of brewing (there were 1.5 spoons of tea leaves for 4 cups) and the forgetfulness of the waitress, who managed to bring the melting dessert much earlier than the tea. All this can easily be attributed to weak staff. The cuisine is decent, and there are more advantages: excellent fish soup and hot fish dishes, fairly prompt presentation without the feeling that the dishes were simply heated. Finally, a clean toilet and an original receipt. We are glad that the restaurant is not a meat restaurant, otherwise they would have brought the skull of a pig or a cow.


The check is quite designed for tourists - three kilorubles for two without alcohol (two salads, two fish soup, two hot fish dishes, a pot of tea and one dessert). For Muscovites - pennies, in our Nizhny Novgorod penates this amounts to a “check with appetite”. But it was delicious, thank you for that.

After lunch, we moved to the center, parked the car in the Eastern Lane and went for a walk through Freedom Park, the former Trade Square. The decoration of this large and poorly maintained square is the bell tower of the demolished Church of the Transfiguration (1789) with a working clock and strike. Looks gothic.

At the time of the construction of the temple, these were the city outskirts, where the defenders of Ostashkov were buried from the Polish invaders of 1610, and now here is the real heart of the city, measuring time. The Ostash were proud of this temple complex, and the names of the builders of the bell tower are still known today - the brothers Ivan and Pyotr Parfenov-Fomkin.

The bell tower itself is already overgrown with birch trees in places, and the dial of its clock does not have any decorations. But the clock is ticking accurately.

Among the notable things in the park are the monument to heroes and a fountain. Dark workers were immediately laying the curb stone, and a couple of gilded babies were playing in the fountain with splashes.

It was not for nothing that the square was called Torgovaya - along its perimeter shopping arcades, shops and warehouses, as well as the houses of wealthy citizens, were built. During the Soviet years, the rows were dismantled into bricks, but the houses remained. There are a lot of trees, quite shady, almost no asphalt and quiet, like in a village.

This is a noble house in the southern part of the square, along Sovetsky Lane. Built in the first half of the 19th century.

A special Ostashkov theme is the rounded corners of houses facing street intersections and squares. Happens so often that not even all of them were photographed. As if it was important for the Ostash to soften the urban space and add windows where there could have been an ordinary corner of the house.

The House of Folk Art, built in 1905, stands nearby.

However, the Ostashas had a theater a hundred years before that - since 1805. It staged operas, dramas, vaudevilles - the repertoire was the widest. In 1856, at the same time as the capital’s theaters in Ostashkov, Griboyedov’s play “Woe from Wit” was staged and released on stage without censorship edits, which was very brave. At the theater there was an orchestra of 20 musicians, and the troupe consisted of amateurs - icon painters, shoemakers, painters and other simple artisans of the town. The only exception was the metropolitan actress Praskovya Ivanovna Orlova (1815 - 1900).


Praskovya Ivanovna Orlova-Savina

Praskovya Ivanovna was born in Moscow, in the family of the peasant Ivan Kulikov, manager of a noble estate. The fate of the Kulikov children was connected with the theater (the brother became a director, and the sister also became an actress). She received a theater education and had success mainly in vaudeville and comedy. Being very young, she married the actor Orlov who seduced her, who turned out to be a gambler and a drunkard. The marriage broke up, and her career developed rapidly - Praskovya Ivanovna performed on stage in St. Petersburg, Moscow, Kyiv, Odessa. Belinsky himself called her “a wonderful artist for both drama and comedy.” Finally, wanting to serve her Motherland, she ended up in besieged Sevastopol in 1855 as a military nurse, for which she received an award. And in 1858, Orlova received an invitation from her friend to stay in Ostashkov, relax in silence and visit the small city theater. Praskovya Ivanovna agreed and was immediately received by the head of the city, Fyodor Kondratyevich Savin, who was rich and patronized many city public institutions.

Fedor Kondratievich Savin

The head of the city was captivated by his communication with Orlova and soon proposed to her. Praskovya Ivanovna did not hide her sympathy and agreed, remaining to live in Ostashkov, where she took part in the life of the theater. Even after being widowed in 1890, she did a lot of charity work in memory of her husband. She did not see the new theater building, built in 1905.

If you continue to look at the houses along the perimeter of the square, you will notice with what scope and appetite some merchant dwellings were built. This handsome man is from the mid-19th century. And pay attention to the mezzanine - as many as five windows and even with an attic window! Incredible! By the way, the rest have a special passion for mezzanines - like rounded corners.

Yes, here you can take pictures of every house!

There are also wooden estates, covered with planks, with preserved glass windows and entrance gates - certainly stone. However, any merchant town loved the gate.

The old carvings of Ostashkovo houses are blank, sparse, but all with watermarks.

The pearl of Ostashkov is a fire station of the 19th century. We even spent some time finding it - due to the abundance of trees and non-universal signs with street names, it was not very easy. In 1843, on the initiative of the city mayor Fyodor Kondratievich Savin, already familiar to us, the first voluntary fire brigade in Russia was created in Ostashkov. In 1857, the team became public, and in 1858, the Ministry of Internal Affairs took Ostashkov’s initiative under its wing, and being a firefighter became prestigious. In 1861 it was the best team in the Tver province. This, however, did not save the city from a terrible fire in 1868, when half of the city burned out. A year later, with the support of the Public Bank of the city mayor Fyodor Savin, a stone fire station with a watchtower was built. Ironically, Savin died during another night fire, the elimination of which he led, being already at an advanced age.

Kalancha is beautiful! Everything has been preserved - both the observation deck and the flagpole.

Unfortunately, the summer sun didn’t allow me to take a direct shot, but the depot looks interesting from an angle.

And nearby is another building related to the city mayor Fyodor Kondratyevich Savin - the House of Mercy for the terminally ill, built by the former actress Praskovya Ivanovna in memory of her husband. Savin is compared to Karabas-Barabas - they say, everything around is Savin. It's an illusion. The Savin family in Ostashkov was large, and many establishments were built at the expense of a wealthy merchant.

We walk further. The city is beautiful in detail. Porch of the house of the merchant Balabanov. The year of construction is right above the entrance in the curls of the visor.

The Valsky Pillar is easy to find on the regular street grid - a real minicopy of the Preobrazhenskaya Bell Tower on the square, only without the clock. The secret is that the builders at the pillar are still the same - the Parfenovs-Fomkins. And an obelisk-chapel has stood on this site since 1785 in memory of the defenders of the city fortress and ramparts. It seems like there are quite a few of their bones in this land. In general, there were four such pillars, but only one has survived.

This is how the pillar looked in the photograph of the pioneer of color photography in Russia, Prokudin-Gorsky, who took a trip to these parts and took 10 frames in the city.

S.M. Prokudin-Gorsky – Ancient chapel “Valsky Pillar” on Ostashkov Street, 1910

Next to the pillar is the former house of the merchant Erofeev, which is often called the house of Nechkin, an amateur musician, librarian, intellectual and wonderful person. Now the building is a museum, but in summer the birch tree in front of the façade makes it difficult to photograph.

By the way, regarding amateurism in Ostashkov. It was developed here and reached incredible scale and skill. Here is how the writer Vasily Speptsov, who arrived in Ostashkov in 1861, wrote in his notes:

“Meanwhile, while you were looking at the lake and enjoying nature, your hearing is struck by the sounds of distant music.

- What is this? study? - you ask thoughtfully, realizing that if there is music in Ostashkov, it can only be military music.

- No; “We don’t have any training,” the coachman condescendingly remarks to you, “and we have our own music playing in the garden.”

- How is it in the garden? What are you saying?

- I won’t lie, see for yourself.

But the closer you move to the music, the more and more your surprise increases... And the music is heard louder and louder. You can already clearly hear that this is not some lousy quartet of retired street musicians, you can already guess that this is a whole orchestra; you see crowds of walking ladies and gentlemen, noise, talk, elegant outfits; here is a carriage, here are several more carriages, and here are people. How many people! Yes, it’s just Tverskoy Boulevard.

- No, this is beyond my strength! I can't stand this! - you say, completely depressed by such an unexpected surprise.

- Where do you get your musicians from? - you finally ask the driver.

— We have our own musicians; citizens play music.

- How are the citizens? what citizens? where are the citizens?

- Yes sir. Ostashi, citizens.

At this time, a choir suddenly burst out; About 50 of the most magnificent voices began at once some kind of solemn hymn. “Glory, glory, our Ostashkov!..” flies to you, and you hear how several terrible basses take over the top. Ostashkov had a city anthem, the words of which were written by the famous writer I.I. Lazhechnikov (1792-1869).

“But the singers, after all, it’s the blacksmiths who sing,” the coachman finishes off you.

You are destroyed, you lie motionless in the tarantass, you see nothing, hear nothing, and only in exhaustion, shaking your head, say:

- God! My God! and who could believe it? Ostashkov, district town... coachmen read Dumas's novels, blacksmiths sing hymns... charitable institutions... bank... orphanage!.. And Europe doesn’t know this!..”

Isn't it lovely?

By the way, in the house of the merchant Erofeev and the intellectual Nechkin there is a museum, which we did not have time to visit, which we regret. And on the wall of the building there is a memorial plaque, of keen interest to everyone born in the USSR.

Opposite the museum is a house of pleasant proportions, with an unchanged mezzanine and a four-column portico of the Ionic order. Handsome man from the 30s and 40s of the 19th century. And it is especially surprising to learn that this is the mansion of the Mitin-Potapov family of artists. We are too accustomed to the fact that an artist is usually poor. True, the Mitin-Potapovs did not paint quite ordinary pictures. It is known that Makarii Potapov participated in the creation of the “Tsar’s Titular Book” in 1672, which included information on Russian history. Representatives of this family painted palaces in Tsarskoe Selo, Pavlovsk, Oranienbaum and the Summer Palace in St. Petersburg. Now ordinary citizens live in the house.

By the way, the statistics of the 18th century also testify to the uniqueness of Ostashkov’s artistic life. “General consideration for the Tver province for 1783-1784”, in the section on “guilds of various arts and crafts” reports: “in Tver - 4 carvers, 11 icon painters, in Kashin - 1 icon painter, in Kalyagin - 3 icon painters, in Rzhev - 2 icon painters, in Torzhok there are 22 “icon painters and goldsmiths”, in Ostashkov there are 30 carpenters and carvers, 42 painters” (!).

Then we decided to walk along the Ostashkov streets to the Trinity Cathedral, to the older part of the city, where the Ostashkov fortress once stood.

The 18th century church houses a museum. Inside there is beautiful stucco and preserved paintings; you can climb the bell tower. But taking a photo in conditions of rich vegetation is almost impossible.

The details of the cathedral are amazing with their fine workmanship, that is, the outside is no less beautiful than the inside.

Next to the cathedral, across the road, almost right next to the roadway, there is an interesting example of stone civil architecture - the town hall building of the 18th century, built by order of Peter I. And even then - with a mezzanine, whose window is decorated with “conceptions”, which they liked to decorate church portals and porches or white stone chambers. But the windows on the first floor are devoid of decorations or have lost them. The town hall somewhat violates the red line of the street, but is oriented towards the temple - perhaps this was intended back in 1722. It seems that the town hall also had a porch befitting the status of the building - it has not been preserved. Now it's just a residential building. You can imagine how thick these walls are.

From the cathedral we walked to the banks of the Seliger River, not forgetting to notice how well the old buildings were preserved. Poverty and lack of quality repairs are perfectly draped with flowers.

From the shore you can see the Smolensk Church on Zhitny...

... and Voronye Island.

We returned from the shore again to the Trinity Cathedral and saw how incredibly beautiful it was framed by trees, although it was blocked by a store.

In old photos, Ostashkov with its streets, churches, boys on the street and cows in the grass is very neat, simply idyllically beautiful.

From the cathedral we turned onto Volodarsky Street - the former Kamennaya, one of the ancient central streets of Ostashkov, which connected the busiest, northern shore of the lake with Cathedral Square and crossed the entire city. It got its name from the stone paving. On the corner with Bogomolova Lane there is this merchant house from the first half of the 19th century. The gray facade is cracked, all the windows are plastic.

It’s good that there are no crocodiles in Seliger. And on the streets of Ostashkov there is one.

On the same street, somewhat recessed from the red line, perhaps inside the former garden, the building of an almshouse, an educational home and a girls' school has stood since 1857. At the beginning of the twentieth century, there was a women's gymnasium with a pedagogical focus, which trained teachers for the entire district. The institution was built with funds from the Public Bank of the same Fyodor Savin.

Another institution along the street is the former police headquarters, built at the end of the 18th century.

We immediately turn onto Rabochaya Street. Once upon a time, very wealthy people lived here. The gentle azure mansion next to the police headquarters is the home of Count Tolstoy.

The house is quite roomy for a small family and is not much different from the mansion of a wealthy Ostash of ignoble origin - except that instead of a fashionable attic there is just a kokoshnik with a dormer window. In the summer, the Tolstoys went to New Yeltsy - their Seliger dacha-palace, which was distinguished by its scale. Now this palace is an expensive place to relax in a beautiful place.


Yakov Nikolaevich Tolstoy

A representative of this family is a theater critic, a hero of the war with Napoleon, chairman of the Green Lamp society (1819-1820), a member of the Welfare Union, later an agent of the government of Nicholas I in France (with the rank of Privy Councilor) - Yakov Nikolaevich Tolstoy (1791 - 1867) was familiar with Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin. The poet dedicated the poem “Stanzas to Tolstoy” to him:

"Early philosopher, you are running

Feasts and pleasures of life,

You look at the games of youth

With a cold silence of reproach.”

Nikolai Alekseevich Tolstoy

From the end of the 19th to the beginning of the 20th century, the owner of the house was Yakov Nikolaevich’s grandnephew, Nikolai Alekseevich Tolstoy. He is a zemstvo activist and philanthropist, writer, translator, and historiographer. He graduated from the Tver Gymnasium and the Arakcheevsky Cadet Corps in our native Nizhny Novgorod. He collected a large archive of documents on the history of his family.

He was married to his second cousin Maria Alekseevna Zagryazhskaya. He raised five children. With the arrival of the Bolsheviks, the Tolstoys tried to escape, but were arrested.

Nikolai Alekseevich Tolstoy and Maria Alekseevna Tolstaya

Before her arrest, Maria Alekseevna managed to give her sons a note: “Don’t come and take care of the little one.” Little is Seryozha’s 10-year-old son. The Tolstoys were shot in Zavidovo, Tver Region, in September 1918. Their archive disappeared, the library was destroyed. The eldest son Nikolai died at the front, two more sons were shot in 1920. The youngest son, Sergei, was taken in by his older sister Vera, who was almost 20 years older than him and lived in Moscow.

The Tolstoys' neighbors are the Shakhovsky princes. The house is also distinguished by its simplicity of lines and belongs to early classicism.

The Shakhovsky family also had a summer estate on the banks of the Seliger River and also suffered from the revolution and repression.

The Shakhovskys’ neighbors include the famous “skipper’s house” in Ostashkov. It has a rounded corner, as it goes from Rabochaya Street to Leninsky Prospekt.

It's funny, but the skipper's first and last name is not mentioned anywhere. It is only known that the owner of the house, Kondraty Savin, the father of that very head of the city, Fyodor Kondratievich, served in the merchant fleet. The flotilla was created in 1825 to transport leather goods to the countries of Western Europe, the Middle East and - attention! – Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Chile. The excellent quality of the products was noted with diplomas, medals and prizes in Paris, Vienna, London and Chicago.


Kondraty Savin (in the center, with a red collar) with his sons Ivan, Konstantin and Fedor

Now traces of the fact that a sailor who received good money for his service lived in the house are visible on the facade - a sailboat and a navigator’s sextant are visible in the medallions.

On Leninsky Prospect, on one of the houses, we noticed the coat of arms of Ostashkov. It’s unlikely that this sign is ancient, but it was nice to see the symbolism of such a worthy town.

Nearby we noticed a large red-brick office building with not just a sloping corner and a window in it, but also a balcony. The house was built by contractor Ivan Nikolaevich Suravkov for the merchant Gulyaev. The building was originally half the size - there was a hotel on the second floor, and rich shops below. Part of the house was added later.

It is obvious that the corner was capped by a spire or something similar, but the element has been lost.

By the way, Ivan Nikolaevich Suravkov is a well-known construction contractor in Ostashkov. Among the things we saw in the first half of that day were the Church of the Transfiguration at the source of the Volga River, and the new stone Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist in the Shirkov Pogost. The wonderful master left a kind and noticeable mark on the history and architecture of Ostashkov. Many of its buildings have survived to this day. In the 1930s, the NKVD began persecuting Ivan Nikolaevich. In winter, he goes across the ice to Lake Valdai to the abbot of the Iversky Monastery, where he still builds a lot in Soviet times. Then he moves to Leningrad, where he dies in December 1941 during the blockade.

Ivan Nikolaevich Suravkov (center) with family members

Literally opposite the apartment building of the merchant Gulyaev, there is an amazingly beautiful house with smiling lions, titans and bunches of grapes. Small, with a mezzanine and a balcony, a gate and a second facade to the square, like a toy and very cozy.

Unfortunately, the name of the owner of the house could not be found. But it is known that the house was built in the 19th century by the same contractor Suravkov according to the designs of the Ostashkovo construction technician Demidov.

The house of construction technician Ivan Ivanovich Demidov is literally nearby - on Magnitsky Street, which is closer to the lake. A small house for a pleasant private life. It’s a pity we couldn’t take a direct photo of the façade – there was a dump truck standing there unloading something bulky.

The lace of the balcony railings and the porch canopy is still amazing - it looks like they are genuine.

The last of the wonderful buildings in the town we examined was a shelter for orphan girls. The house was built in the eclectic style by the same Ivan Suravkov, commissioned by Kozma and Olga Larikov. Now the house belongs to private owners who found funds for the restoration of the building.

To examine not only the civil architecture, but also the temples and monasteries of Ostashkov, you need more than one day. If you are lucky and can afford this luxury while vacationing on Seliger, you are lucky. And that evening we hurriedly said goodbye to Ostashkov in order to have time to get to Tver via Kuvshinovo. The local cats didn’t want to let us go, even in exchange for a piece of sausage.

Climate

  • Average annual air temperature - 4.4 °C
  • Average wind speed - 3.0 m/s
Climate of Ostashkov (1983-2005)
IndexJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctBut IDecYear
Average maximum, °C54,50,59,116,120,122,320,114,07,00,64,77,9
Average minimum, °C11,311,87,20,16,311,013,511,77,21,95,310,60,5
Average temperature, °C883,24,811,515,918,216,110,64,52,87,54,4

Ostashkov

(Tver region)

OKATO code:
28440
Founded:
1587
City since:
1770 City of regional subordination
Center:
Ostashkovsky district
Telephone code (reference phone)

48235*****

Deviation from Moscow time, hours:
0
Geographic latitude:
57°09′
Geographic longitude:
33°06′
Altitude above sea level, meters:
210 Sunrise and sunset times in the city of Ostashkov

The city of Ostashkov is the administrative center of the Ostashkovsky district of the Tver region. Located on the southern coast of Seliger , 190 km west of Tver. Railroad station.

Population (2010) – 18.07 thousand people.

In a letter of 1371 from the Lithuanian prince Olgerd to Patriarch Philotheus, Klichen is mentioned - the most outlying border town of the Moscow principality - the first precisely dated message about Klichen. The town was located on the northwestern side of Klichen Island.

In 1393, the Novgorod “willing army” ravaged and burned the town of Klichen, brutally dealing with its inhabitants. The few survivors (according to legend, the only resident of Klichen, the fisherman Evstafiy (“Ostashko”), survived) move to the peninsula south of the island of Klichen and settle there.

In the 1477 refusal of lands by the Volokolamsk prince Boris Vasilyevich Volotsky to his wife Ulyania, two villages called Ostashkov settlements are mentioned. The settlements are called Evstafievskaya and Timofeevskaya, later the first of them receives the name Iosifovskaya, the second - Metropolitan or Patriarchal.

At the end of the 15th century, the Ostashkov villages turned into settlements. They belonged to the Volokolamsk prince Boris Vasilyevich. He refused the Ostashkov settlements to his wife Ulyania, and in 1500 his son Fyodor, probably as a sign of reconciliation with the wayward founder of the Volotsk monastery, Joseph, “assigned the Evstafievskaya settlement to the monastery,” which has since received the name Josephovskaya. The remaining lands of the Ostashkovo settlements belonged to the Moscow Metropolitan since 1565 and were called the Metropolitan, or Patriarchal, settlement. The inhabitants of these settlements, fearing the invasion of Lithuania, built a fortress in 1587 - the Ostashkovsky town. But the fortifications did not save the town during the Polish-Lithuanian invasion, and he and his governor kissed the cross to the “Tushino thief.”

After the expulsion of the Poles, Ostashkov began to grow rapidly, and soon a new settlement was formed nearby - Strugovishche, in the place where the Znamensky Monastery is now located and where, apparently, boats - plows - were made.

On the eve of the upcoming war with Poland, there was a decree to build a new fortress instead of the dilapidated old one, which was restored in a relatively short period of time (1651-1653).

The census books of 1665 left a detailed report on what the Ostashkov fortress looked like in those years: “Vasily Stefanov Dereshchagin inspected and measured and rewrote the city of Ostashkov , how many fathoms there were around the city by measure and what the height was. A city of wood, chopped, near Lake Seliger...”

The third city fortress did not stand for long. In 1676 there was a fire, the walls and towers burned down. But Ostashkov still remained an important strategic border point.

The fourth fortifications of the city were half the size of the previous ones and stood on the eastern part of the old scree. This fortress existed until 1711, when it also burned down and was never rebuilt.

At the end of the 17th century, Ostashkov turned into a large city, where the population grew rapidly and trade developed.

Ostashkov was divided into two settlements. In the Monastyrskaya Sloboda in 1677 they began to build the Resurrection Cathedral - one of the largest in the Tver region. At the same time, a bell tower was built next to the cathedral. Following this, for the residents of the Patriarchal Settlement near the Resurrection Cathedral in 1685, the Trinity Cathedral was founded, consecrated in 1697.

Ostashkov was like at the end of the 17th century based on the surviving material monuments. It changed too much “in the European manner” after it received city status in the 18th century.

In 1760, permission was given to build a stone Transfiguration Church on what was then the outskirts of the city. From the moment the church and bell tower were built, the formation of a new center of Ostashkov began, which finally took shape a little later. The building of the Transfiguration Church itself was dismantled before the war. Only the bell tower, built almost twenty-five years later, survived. Then the administrative center of Ostashkov became a square with shopping arcades around the Church of the Transfiguration.

The reforms of Peter I Ostashki aside . First of all, they concerned the economic way of life.

On May 28, 1770, by decree of Catherine II , Ostashkov received the status of a city.

In 1789, a chapel-monument to the city fortifications - the Valsky Pillar - was erected Ostashkov At this time, intensive development of the city is underway according to the approved master plan.

Stone construction in the city was carried out intensively. Already in 1814, academician Nikolai Yakovlevich Ozeretskovsky, Ostashkov If we add to this the stone shops, shops, forges and factories, we get an impressive picture of the development of the city.

In 1889, a museum was created at the Ostashkov City School.

1907 - opening of regular traffic on the Bologoe-Polotsk railway.

In the fall of 1939, Polish prisoners of war - police officers and border guards - began to arrive at the former monastery of Nilova Pustyn , converted into a concentration camp. Six months later, in the spring of 1940, most of them would be shot in the building of the NKVD internal prison in Kalinin.

In the fall of 1941, the front line approached Ostashkov by 4-5 kilometers. Ostashkov becomes a front-line town. German aircraft often bomb the city - mainly the railway station and the city power plant, less often - residential areas.

On October 22, 1946, a large group of German rocket specialists was sent from occupied Germany to the Soviet Union and brought to the island of Gorodomlya near Ostashkov . There they help Soviet specialists in the development of rocket technology. In 1951-53. they are released back to Germany.

The war is long over. It is now difficult to find soldier trenches and partisan forest dugouts Seliger This region has become a place of tourist pilgrimage. A large Museum of History and Local Lore in Ostashkov , which contains exhibits telling about the distant past and the formation of Soviet power on Seliger, its heroic defense during the Great Patriotic War and how the Seliger region changed after the Great October Socialist Revolution.

The city's attractions include:

Zhitenny Monastery (founded in 1716 on the island of Zhitnoye, closed after the October Revolution, reopened in 2002. It houses the icon of the Smolensk Mother of God (Hodegetria), the protector and patroness of Ostashkov, until 1711 the icon was on the main serfs gates of the city),

Znamensky Monastery (founded in 1673, the current Ascension Church is located on the territory of the monastery),

fire station building with a tower (1869) (the first voluntary fire brigade in Russia was created in Ostashkov in 1843),

Trinity and Resurrection Cathedrals,

Residential buildings,

Bell tower of the Transfiguration Church,

Valian pillar.

Phone code: +7 48235 Website about the city and lake: www.ostashkov.ru

Climate and Ecology

The climate of the city and region is characterized as moderate continental. The average annual air temperature is 4.4 °C. Severe frosts and sweltering heat are quite rare. Winter in the city lasts for more than five months. A stable snow cover forms in late November - early December and reaches a maximum height of 40-60 cm in early March. The duration of the period with stable snow cover is 4-5 months. The average temperature in January is -9 degrees, but several days a year the temperature can drop to -25 degrees or lower. Winter ends in late March or early April.

Spring begins in early April and lasts about two months. The weather in the spring months is usually sunny and dry, but the temperature rises very slowly.


Source of the Volga

Summer lasts three months: from June to August. The weather in summer is usually warm, but humid and changeable. The average temperature in July usually ranges from +17 to +19 degrees.

Autumn begins in early September. The weather in autumn is usually rainy and cool, although the temperature drops slowly. The average temperature in October is +5 degrees. Winter comes in November.

The ecological situation of the city is considered quite acceptable and the city even has the status of a resort city. All the large-scale factories of the city, which at one time had a negative impact on the ecology of the city, have sunk into oblivion: a creamery, a brewery, a bakery, and a tannery on the verge of closure. Thanks to this, the ecological situation of the city is quite favorable for permanent residents to live in the city and for the relaxation of visiting guests.

Districts and real estate of Ostashkov

The city itself is small in area; you can walk the whole of Ostashkov from one end of the city to the other in 30-40 minutes. Residents unofficially divide the city into districts: Station, Kozhzavod, Boynya, microdistrict. There are a lot of poorly equipped houses with wood and stone stove heating.

The cost of apartments in the city varies greatly depending on the location of the apartment and the condition of the house, in the area of ​​​​the microdistrict and the leather factory, where there are 5-story buildings, a 1-room apartment can be bought from 1 million rubles to 1.5 million rubles, depending on its condition.

Sales of houses in the city start from 100,000 rubles and up to several million; there are luxurious multi-storey cottages, built mainly by Muscovites, which cost several million rubles. There are parks in the city that add greenery to the city, which is already surrounded by it.

City infrastructure

In general, the city does not create the impression of a well-kept resort town, but for people living in it and especially visiting it as tourists, the lack of developed infrastructure is, in a way, an addition to the silence and measured life inherent in the villages of Russia.


Train Station

There is an embankment in the city near Lake Seliger, where you can stroll along with ice cream in the summer or go skiing in the winter.

Prices for utilities are huge compared to the level of salaries of citizens.

There are only 2 buses running around the city on the same route No. 3 from Nizhniye Rudin to Kozhzavod. Roads in the city are a separate issue, but as was written above, this complements the feeling that you have arrived in a Soviet-era village and it carries a soul-stirring nostalgia.


River Station

Recently, the situation with the queue in kindergartens has improved; with the opening of the renovated Zolotoy Klyuchik kindergarten and at the station, the queue has practically disappeared. In the near future, a much-needed sports complex for young people should be built in the city.

Enterprises and work in Ostashkov

On the island not far from the city there is a little-known but very important Zvezda plant, which produces parts for the ISS Mir. The tannery is operating, but not at full capacity.

The Luch plant is operating, but the number of jobs there is not the same as when entire dormitories were built for the workers of these plants.

One of the high-paying places remains the much-needed Bologoe-Velikie Luki railway.

Now the majority of city residents work in non-productive sectors, such as trade. It’s good that new production facilities are even opening, the Dorkhan door factory, for example.

It is a pity that many leave the city in search of well-paid work, some permanently, some on a rotational basis, but as they age, most of the young people who leave return back. This affects the love for that quiet small Motherland, which left its mark on the character and temperament of each of those who left the city and its environs.

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