Independent holiday on Lake Baikal in 2022: how to get there and where to relax


This article is about popular places for camping with tents and car camping on the shores of Lake Baikal. The largest lake in Russia is a good choice for “savages”! There are plenty of places where you can stay on Lake Baikal with tents. Camping with tents on Lake Baikal is the best way to feel the atmosphere of this place and see the most incredible landscapes and places. There is a great variety of natural beauty in the vicinity of Lake Baikal.

Tourists set up tent camps both on the outskirts of villages and in the wild. On the shore it is easy to find parking areas with fire pits, tent decks, tables, benches and wooden toilets. No matter what - but still comfort! If you like uninhabited places and are ready for bad roads, go to the taiga northeast of the lake.

I will deliberately exclude the surroundings of Listvyanka from the descriptions, although you can relax with tents there too. But Listvyanka is the most visited place on Baikal and most likely those who like to camp in tents will be interested in less crowded areas.

Places for savages to relax on Lake Baikal, where you can relax in the summer

There are a lot of such places, or rather, the entire M55 highway runs along the lake almost all the time, so you can drive and choose the places you want.
For recreation, tourists most often choose the southern coast, which will be discussed in this article; just below I will give maps with the locations of places that are more optimally suitable for savages to relax on Lake Baikal. If you decide to stay in the village of Listvyanka for the night, we go far along the coast beyond the village, there are wild places where you can often meet people resting in tents like savages. The village of Listvyanka cannot be called an ideal place for a long vacation; expensive prices and crowded conditions will not let you relax. In the photo, if you decide to spend a couple of nights in a tent, I have marked the wild beaches in red for you, we walk along the coast, about 3 kilometers from the Mayak hotel and you are there. You can climb up to the observatory and you will have a picturesque view of the lake!

There you can also find a famous trail among avid tourists who like to go on a trip for several days. The trail goes from the village of Listvyanka to Bolshie Koty, a distance of approximately 35 kilometers; along the entire length of the trail you can find places to rest in tents. Many tourists go on an excursion called the Circum-Baikal Railway (Circum-Baikal Railway), here you can not only ride the train and see all the beauty, but also spend the night in the wild places of this lake; I posted photos from the excursion along the Circum-Baikal Railway in my separate article.

We pass to Baikal from the village of Utulik and the city of Baikalsk. If you drive along the M55 highway, then after the village of Utulik wild beaches begin; here you can take any turn towards Lake Baikal. Places for savages to relax here in the summer are not free for a long time, so be prepared.

I can especially recommend the places near the tourist base "Chaika", there is a very good beach with small pebbles, the wind hardly blows from this direction, and the proximity to the tourist center will give you the opportunity to sit in a cafe in the evening, dance, and ride catamarans during the day. As you already understood, I highlighted in red places on the shore that are ideal for savages to relax in tents in the summer.

Let's go further, what other places for savages to relax on the southern coast of Lake Baikal? Next along the M55 highway is the city of Baikalsk, there is one very secret place here, which I will tell you, very few tourists know about it, and independent travelers come here to relax almost every year. So this place is called "Red Sands". You won’t believe it, but the coast of Baikal in this place is really made of red sand, every year this sand becomes less and less, but still many tourists come here to admire and relax here and nowhere else. Remember the card!

At the fork from the M55 highway you will need to turn towards the city of Baikalsk, then try to drive through the village towards the coast; there are many roads leading through the village to the coast, so you won’t get confused.

Now let's talk about what awaits you on the coast after the city of Baikalsk, nothing good, especially we pass the village of Vydrino, here the local population does not really like tourists in tents, beatings and robberies occur very often. But there is one place called “Warm Lakes”; I already wrote an article about them called “summer holidays on Baikal”; I already gave a link to this article at the top of this article. Here, a savage vacation in the summer can exceed all your expectations; be sure to read more about the warm lakes on my website and look at the photos.

Listvyanka

The village is called Baikal Anapa, probably because of its popularity among tourists. In addition to guest houses, there are paid tent cities. Rest in the paid zone will not be cheap - fifty rubles per hour. Free clearings can be found to the north. There are free places for lunch here. But there are no toilets here. You will have to dig the toilet yourself.

What else to take to Baikal?

We take a cap and glasses to protect ourselves from the sun. We put on shoes on our feet that will give you comfort in movement, I’ll tell you a little secret, there are no roads on Baikal, so the last thing you will need here are slippers or ordinary slates, we take sneakers or well-ventilated shoes based on mountain boots. For those who like to climb mountains, it is worth noting that the mountains are very slippery, which means the soles of the boots must be appropriate.

What to take to Baikal in winter? Everything that will warm your soul and body! We take extra sweaters and waterproof clothing, since most areas of Lake Baikal contain loose and wet snow, in which shoes get wet very quickly. If you take certain areas, such as Olkhon or the village of Kultuk, then in winter there is little snow and winds constantly blow, which means the first thing you will need to take is a jacket with a hood and non-slip boots.

List of medications in a tourist's first aid kit →

Well, the last thing you can take to Baikal is a camera and a thermos, if you still don’t have these things, then personally from my experience I wrote two very useful articles:

Travel to Baikal on your own. How to go

If you fly by plane

One of the large cities near Lake Baikal is Irkutsk. Those who fly by plane mainly flock here. Those who embark on a trip to Baikal on their own, I’m sure, will be able to figure out how to buy a plane ticket, so we won’t cover the purchase of plane tickets.

From Irkutsk to Baikal 70 kilometers. But from Irkutsk, if you don’t have a gold card from the “Heads and Tails” program, then like everyone else, we get to the lake by ground transport.

You can get to the coast of Lake Baikal from the city by bus, minibus, boat or yacht (but this is more likely for gold card holders). The delivery method and type of transport depend on the exact place you are trying to get to.

The general recommended route is:

  • Listvyanka,
  • Olkhon Island,
  • Small sea,
  • Sukhaya Bay,
  • Peschanaya Bay.

If you decide to use this route, you can get from the Irkutsk bus station to Listvyanka in 1 hour by bus, the ticket costs about 80 rubles. A ship also runs regularly from the Raketa pier to Listvyanka. Cost – 120 rubles. The journey takes longer - about 1.5-2 hours.

To the Small Sea and Olkhon Island

You can get there by regular minibus or by the Irkutsk-Khuzhir bus. The drive takes about 4 hours. Ticket 300 rubles. Another option is the Irkutsk-MRS minibus, the journey takes less - 3 hours, the ticket price is approximately the same. Another option is the motor ship Comet, but it costs four times more - 1,200 rubles. Flight – “Irkutsk-Nizhneangarsk”. The comet enters Zagli Bay, which is located on Olkhon.

Sukhaya and Peschanaya bays. Apparently fewer people come here; the passenger ship “Barguzin” has a regular flight three times a week. You reach your destination in 6 hours. Ticket cost is about 500 rubles.

Very important! The prices for tickets and services mentioned in this article are approximate and may not correspond to actual prices at the time of your arrival! The situation in the country is not stable and everything is only getting more expensive (and this has been the case for more than a century for sure)

To Baikal by train

Direct trains (without transfers) run from Moscow to Irkutsk. You can go to Severobaikalsk or to Ulan-Ude, but these are rather unpromising directions. So we are going to Irkutsk. Russian Railways now has a good service on the Internet; all information about routes, ticket prices, and so on, can always be clarified by going to the website.

Important! Almost all trains that go from the western part of Russia to Vladivostok or Khabarovsk pass by the lake! So, getting to Baikal by rail is, in principle, easy.

We have already described the routes from Irkutsk. They forgot to mention Arshan - there are amazing hot springs there. Those who are looking for the wildest places of Lake Baikal are still better off going to Severobaikalsk. From there you will travel to the northern part of the lake. You can also find yourself in the Chivyrkuisky Bay area or the Barguzin Valley - then you have a direct road to Ulan-Ud.

To Baikal in your own car

Mostly residents of cities not as remote as Moscow drive their own car to Baikal. There are advantages and disadvantages here. With a car, you are not tied to plane/train schedules, you can take more necessary things and food with you, and you can sleep in a car (though not just any car). Before leaving, you should make sure that the car is in good technical condition and get a good night's sleep.

The condition of federal highways in the direction of Irkutsk is now quite good. It’s almost 5,250 kilometers from Moscow if you follow one of the highways: M-53 or M-7.

Hitchhiking to Baikal

The most uncommon way of moving in our country, but it exists. Hitchhiking is for romantics and the longest in terms of time. Mostly young people travel this way, and it’s unlikely that anyone will take children on such a journey.

Rent a Car

In Irkutsk and other cities that can serve as starting points for your road trip, cars from the latest years of production are rented out. Usually every car is insured.

Features of car rental:

  • You can rent a car upon arrival by visiting the landlord’s office;
  • if you book a car in advance, its rental may be cheaper;
  • the cost of rental is practically no different from the average prices in the country - 2,000-2,500 rubles per day;
  • if you rent a car for a week, the second and subsequent days usually cost less;
  • if you rent an inexpensive car, the weekly rental amount is approximately 13,000 rubles, not counting fuel costs.


Serpentine in Kultuk

Where is the best place to relax on Lake Baikal in summer?

According to tourists, the western shore of the lake is more acceptable for summer holidays on Lake Baikal, especially with tents. It is flatter and great for traveling with children. The main tourist routes run along it and there are many places where savages can stay.

Listvyanka village

About 70 km. Accommodation for every taste and price; you can rent cottages on the shore for a large group.

Things to do? The village has several museums, cafes, and an embankment with a market where they sell peled. Crossing the Angara towards the Circum-Baikal Railway, in the morning at 6.40 you can go to the wild coast and leave back at 18.15, see the exact schedule on the WSRP website.

Must-sees: Limnological Museum, nerpinarium, cable car, equestrian center. You can go kayaking or SUP surfing at the local diving center.

There is a transfer from Irkutsk to Listvyanka from the bus station and the central market (the cost of travel by minibus is 150 rubles, the bus is cheaper).

Olkhon Island

Housing can be rented in villages without intermediaries from 600 rubles per day (with amenities on the street), but it is better to book recreation centers via the Internet in the spring; during the season you will not find places even in remote places.

What to see? Cape Khoboy - Uzury, Ogoy Island, Idiba Deep and the healing salt lake Shara - Nur, Cape Mare's Head and Lake Nuku - Nur, Shamanku rock and Peschanaya Bay with stilted trees.

You can get there by bus, by car or minibuses from Irkutsk. Travel time to Khuzhir will be about 4 hours including the crossing. But at the crossing during the season there are queues in both directions! To avoid this, we recommend going on vacation in the middle of the week and returning on any day except Sunday.

Arshan Resort

Where is the best place to relax in the mountains in the summer on Lake Baikal? Most tourists will answer - at the Arshan resort. In the Tunkinskaya Valley there are several sanatoriums, hotels and recreation centers. You can also rent private housing directly without intermediaries, the cost per season starts from 700 rubles for accommodation in good conditions.

What to visit? Mineral springs in Arshan itself and its surroundings, be sure to get some water, waterfalls along the Kyngyrga River. It’s worth visiting local cafes and trying Buryat cuisine. First of all, we order buzy from minced meat, then sagudai. You can go to the Nile Desert and swim in radon baths.

Severobaykalsk

The surrounding area of ​​the city is rich in thermal springs.

What to see? Ayaya Bay, where you can see seals and Lake Frolikha, BAM, the hot spring Khakusy, Goudzhekit and Kotelnikovsky springs, Big Slyudyanskoye Lake, which warms up to +25°C in summer, the Evenki Fairy Tale tourist complex.

Climbers come to Severobaikalsk to conquer Mount Chersky, rafters come to raft on the Tyya River. You can get there by train from Moscow, local airlines or by boat from Irkutsk.

Slyudyanka city

We advise you to stay not in Slyudyanka itself, but in the village of Utulik (where to stay in Utulik), in the summer here you can buy delicious Victoria and go to the mountains on an excursion, ride catamarans at the nearest camp sites.

Must-sees: the unique railway station made of marble, the museum-estate “Gems of Baikal”, the cliff “Bird Market” - the nesting place of the herring gull, Chersky Peak and Lake Heart. The most convenient way to travel from Irkutsk to Slyudyanka is by train (travel time is about 4 hours).

Small Sea

An area near the coast with a huge number of recreation centers for every taste and cost, a vacation on Lake Baikal in the summer on the Small Sea will be ideal for a family trip. The most popular place among Russians, where it is worth going for a week or more. When planning your vacation, we advise you to be guided by a selection of the best camp sites on the Small Sea.

What to do and what to see? Mostly people come here for a relaxing holiday and walks along the lake; for active young people we recommend staying in Zuun Hagun; in the summer season, open air nightclubs are often held here.

Where is the best place to stay on the coast from different sides →


Road to the village of Arshan

Small Sea

The seventy-six kilometer coastline is the crown of a beach holiday. Warm water, smooth entry into the water, wonderful nature. The coastline stretches from Sakhyurt to Kurm. Tents are permitted on campsites. The pleasure is not free - from two hundred to five hundred rubles per day. Wild recreation is also possible on the Small Sea. However, not all places are suitable for driving. Some trails are closed to vehicles. The further from the village, the fewer vacationers. The winds on the coast of the Small Sea are fierce, so you need to secure your tent well.

In December we film how the ice cracks

Baikal in December is not for everybody. For the thrill seeker. Stop anywhere on the coast to hear how the lake is “angry”: it “sighs” loudly and noisily, makes noise, loudly cracks. Scary, not for the faint of heart! In fact, this means that Baikal has not yet risen. In December, before your eyes, it freezes and the ice floes crack. If you climb to any high point nearby, for example, Chersky Peak in Listvyanka, you will see that the lake seems to “float”.

December on Lake Baikal means uplifted ice and huge polynyas. Photo: Yulia PYKHALOVA, “KP”-Irkutsk”

December is the real “off-season” on Baikal, which not everyone will like. But if there is someone who likes to photograph uplifted ice, huge ice holes over which thick air “stands,” this is the time for him.

If you are planning a vacation on Lake Baikal in the winter of 2019-2020, we recommend going to Listvyanka, Bolshoye Goloustnoye or the Small Sea. You should definitely visit the Taltsy Museum.

Khamar-Daban

Fans of mountains, climbing and extreme tourism are advised to pay attention to Khamar-Daban. Khamar-Daban is a ridge located in Buryatia in the west of Lake Baikal.

You can get to the ridge from Irkutsk or Ulan Ude, starting the hike in the famous Slyudyanka. You can get to Slyudyanka by train or car. From Slyudyanka walk along a well-trodden path to Khamar-Daban. Along the way you will see a lot of interesting things: Lake Heart, Chersky Peak, 2090 meters high. Climbing the peak is a popular activity in this region. The road to the peak is serpentine and is part of an ancient caravan route from Russia to China and Mongolia.

Tents can be pitched freely along the entire route. There is unlikely to be a suitable place in Slyudyanka itself, but many tourists still arrange parking along the Circum-Baikal Railway.

The best time to visit is from June to September.

Where exactly to go to Baikal?

As mentioned above, the lake is 636 km long, so it is physically impossible to visit everything at once.

The easiest way to go to Baikal on your own is here (follow the links for detailed reports):

  • Irkutsk
  • Listvyanka
  • The village of Big Cats and the Great Baikal Trail
  • Olkhon Island
  • Khuzhir village
  • The coast of the Small Sea is that part of the lake that is separated by Olkhon, like a bay.
  • Circum-Baikal Railway
  • Peschanaya Bay
  • Neighborhoods of Severobaykalsk
  • Ulan-Ude

All these places will be quite crowded in the summer, with all the ensuing consequences. If you want silence and solitude, you need to avoid places that can be reached by car.

In general, the southeast coast is more populated, civilized, and has infrastructure.

To Baikal as a savage

On the east coast are located:

  • Barguzinsky Bay
  • Maksimikha
  • Resort Goryachinsk
  • Chivyrkuisky Bay
  • Holy Nose Peninsula

Also visit the Ushkany Islands, look at the Baikal seals in their natural habitat. True, this pleasure is quite expensive! But everything north of Olkhon is truly wild and harsh places.

Near Baikal there is the beautiful Tunkinskaya Valley (according to scientists, this is one large extinct supervolcano). It contains resorts known throughout Siberia: Arshan, Zhemchug, Nilova Pustyn.

On the way from Irkutsk to Listvyanka, we recommend stopping at the Taltsy Ethnographic Museum. It is dedicated to the indigenous peoples of Siberia, some houses were simply taken from villages and brought to an open-air museum, you can walk around and touch them.

Ushkany Islands Baikal

Every year hundreds of tourists come to Lake Baikal on their own to go hiking in these places. But it’s not so easy, you need to be prepared for bad weather, high mountains, impenetrable taiga...

The most popular routes on the western coast of Lake Baikal:

  • Village Listvyanka - Maloye More
  • Olkhon Island. The entire island can be walked up and down, only in some places there is no access to the water, there are sharp rocks and ledges.
  • Cape Kotelnikovsky - Lake Gitara (northern part of Baikal)
  • The Great Baikal Trail (from Listvyanka to the village of Bolshiye Koty).

Naturally, there are a lot of hiking routes around the lake; look for them on specialized forums and websites, for example “The Magic of Baikal” or “Baikal Fan”.

Goryachinsk

Goryachinsk is located 175 km from Ulan-Ude, so you can easily get there by car on a good road. Minibuses and buses run daily from the city to Goryachinsk.

The resort is popular among residents of Buryatia, so there you will find equipped campsites with cafes, kitchens and parking lots.

Wild tourism is officially prohibited in Buryatia. Travelers have the right to stay only in specially equipped recreational areas, but since the authorities must build these areas only by 2025, tourists still rest like savages.

In the vicinity of Goryachinsk you can go to Mount Bychya (1771 meters), make a trek to the Turuntaevskaya cave, where traces of ancient people were found, and visit the sacred lake with the mystical name Dukhovoe.

The best time to visit is from June to September.

Ergaki can also be noted among popular places among tourists. How to get there and what is remarkable about the mountains, you will learn from the review: “Let’s go hiking in Ergaki: what you need to know for an independent trip.”

What things to take to Baikal and the weather

Baikal is very capricious even in the summer, for example, on the island of Olkhon, when it rains in the summer, you can safely put on a down jacket and walk under an umbrella, but when the sun comes out, we put on swimwear and sunbathe. I wrote a whole article about the weather on Lake Baikal in more detail, which I recommend reading for those who are traveling to the lake for the first time and have never encountered Siberian nature.

We will assume that you are traveling towards Olkhon and the Small Sea, although the second option is not very capricious, since most of the coast is covered by mountains from the wind, but Olkhon is very well ventilated, so first of all we take a warm jacket, preferably water-repellent. For tourists who are particularly susceptible to illness, I recommend taking a light hat and a woolen jacket (or fleece), which you will definitely need in the evening.

As for tourists who decide to vacation on Lake Baikal as savages, I advise you to take an additional set of things that you will need after the rain, there are times when the wind simply blows the tent off and while you are setting it up, it is very easy to get completely wet.

For 'savages', the first thing to do is to take care of the serviceability of your car. My advice to you is to take at least a few spare wheels, I won’t talk about the repair kit of tools, the entire necessary set should accompany you anywhere. As for the list of things, I recently wrote an article called “list of things at sea.” I understand that Baikal is far from the sea, but the main part of the list will be very useful to you, especially the medications, which are described in detail in the article.

A shovel, matches, an axe, a knife, lighter fluid and some firewood should also be present first when packing for Lake Baikal. As for nightlife near the shore, for this you will need a sleeping bag, a tent, a mattress, if you don’t already have them, then read the articles:

Important nuances

Before your trip, you should protect yourself and other members of the trip by taking out special insurance. Before the trip, you need to purchase tickets in advance and prepare all the necessary things, checking everything against the list. You cannot put a tent in front of the water, as there will be high tides on the lake at night, which will cause a lot of unpleasant situations. It is important to store money and documents in a safe place, pre-pack hermetically in a file or box. Children should not have access there. Many experienced travelers who have repeatedly encountered stored in different places

You can also store scanned copies on your phone. If necessary, they can be printed. Among the main nuances, we should highlight the fact that in some places on the lake cellular communication will be lost and it is important to leave your coordinates to someone close to you. For lovers of fishing and hunting, you will need to take gear and equipment. But there is an alternative option; it is convenient to rent everything you need on the lake. For example, renting a tent will cost about 250 rubles per day, a sleeping bag is three times less. The collateral is a passport or an equivalent amount of money. The best option is to travel by car, where you can put all the necessary things and hide in case of an unforeseen situation or a storm. For families with children, it is important to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In addition to books and toys, when traveling in the summer, you need to stock up on a sand set, which will be useful for building castles and other structures on the shores of Lake Baikal. This kind of entertainment is suitable even for adults.

If you prepare properly, your vacation as a savage will go without any problems, and you will be able to return to the bustling city with a lot of positive emotions.

You can admire Baikal a little more in the video:

How to sleep

During a wild holiday, sleeping bags and tents will become indispensable. If you don’t have a special waterproof awning, you can use regular polyethylene, which will prevent things from getting wet in the tent.

It is better to buy a rectangular or cocoon sleeping bag. The first option will replace a blanket or bedding; you can sleep comfortably in it even on the coldest night. The cocoon is not so comfortable.

Before purchasing a tent, it is important to explain to the consultant where you will have to rest; he will select a product from a certain material. When planning to purchase a sleeping bag, it is important to understand that they are produced according to the season

For the summer season, the products are light, single-layer. This option is suitable for hiking, rafting and outdoor trips.

When planning to purchase a sleeping bag, it is important to understand that they are produced according to the season. For the summer season, the products are light, single-layer

This option is suitable for hiking, rafting and outdoor trips.

Traveling in the off-season is good with a demi-season sleeping bag that can withstand frost down to minus 5 degrees. It will be great for sleeping in a tent in frosty conditions. If you use two three-layer sleeping bags, you will be warm even on snow or glaciers. For the winter season, it is worth purchasing an insulated version that can withstand frosts of up to 10 degrees. In most cases, four layers of insulation provide warmth.

Among the many options for relaxing near the lake, expedition or camping tents are more suitable. The first option is wind-resistant and perfectly protects from moisture and rain. They can be installed on the plain or in mountainous conditions. For those who like to relax with a car, a camping option with a high ceiling and a large vestibule is suitable. This type of tent also has windows and excellent ventilation; the disadvantages of this type include high price and bulkiness.

A trip of this type requires additional preparation so that everything is at hand at the right time

  • a small first aid kit with dressings, antiseptics and painkillers;
  • food supply and the ability to replenish it. You need to find out what locality or tourist center is nearby, so that if necessary, you can visit it;
  • decide in advance where to go. On Baikal, people most often choose either Peschanaya Bay or Olkhon Island. Places for tents are provided here. The motor ship "Barguzin" and private yachts go to Peschanaya. When you get to this place, the feeling of complete separation from civilization comes almost immediately. Olkhon attracts with its combination of forest and steppe; it is very beautiful here.
  • Do not forget that there will be no cellular communication in the forest and leave your coordinates to someone (either at the nearest recreation center or to loved ones);
  • You don’t have to bring your own equipment for fishing or hunting; you can rent it, just like tents and sleeping bags. On Baikal, everything you need for vacationers can be rented everywhere. A tent costs 250 rubles per day, a sleeping bag costs 65 rubles. You must leave a passport or 6,000 rubles as a deposit, which will be returned after the end of the rental;
  • It’s better to drive your own car, which will not only be a means of transportation, but also a container for things and, if anything, a roof over your head;

You should be conscious about your choice of clothing. Even if it’s hot, you need to take warm clothes with you, since at night the temperature always drops sharply. Shoes should be comfortable and durable. It’s worth taking a spare set of clothes and shoes just in case. A raincoat will also come in handy.

If you prepare well for such a hike, you can even take small children with you. This trip will bring no less pleasure and joy than staying in a hotel. If you take a vacation on Lake Baikal at savage prices and compare them with accommodation at the same recreation center, you can understand that the savings will be significant, and there will be a lot of impressions.

Olkhon

The equipped parking lot “Flower under the Snow” is located in the village area of ​​Khuzhir, the administrative center of Olkhon. To set up a tent, you need to pay five hundred rubles (price per day). A parking space for a car costs three hundred and fifty rubles per day. Facilities provided: community kitchen, clean water for drinking, washing facilities and toilets. Wild recreation on the Sarai coast is prohibited, because it became part of the national park. Lighting a fire or leaving trash is also prohibited by law. Now tourists are forced to pay to stay in these picturesque places. The cost of living (per day) is fifty and one hundred rubles. A smaller amount is intended for local residents. There are no amenities on the coast.

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