Baikal on your own - how to organize it? My review and trip itinerary

I was born and lived most of my life in Buryatia. Since childhood, for many years in a row, the question “Where to go in Russia in the summer?” – the answer was – to Baikal!

I always got there myself, and in this article I will share my knowledge on how to plan a trip to Baikal on your own.

If you don’t have the time/opportunity/desire to organize a trip on your own, or you want to go with a company, you can look for a suitable tour on one of the resources:

• Big country
• YouTravel.me

Both sites are created by enthusiastic travelers who work directly with tour organizers. They have their own interesting routes to non-pop places (and pop places too, by the way!)

When is the best time to go? Summer and winter Baikal

Read also:  Kaluga - the “first step” on the ladder to the stars

Throughout my childhood and youth, I spent my summer holidays on Lake Baikal. And in 2022 she flew to the lake from Moscow in winter

Baikal has three popular seasons:

• summer
• winter
• autumn

In summer you can swim, in winter you can look at the famous ice, and in autumn you can admire nature and fish. And only in the spring there is calm. Each season is good in its own way, very short and unique.

➢ Summer Baikal enchants wildlife lovers who cannot imagine a vacation without swimming

The water in Baikal is cold even in the warmest time of the year. Despite the fact that the summer climate is characterized by dry heat up to 40°C, swimming in the lake is not a pleasure, but a test to see who can last longer. You can swim on Lake Baikal from July to early September, but the most comfortable time is August.

The average water temperature in August is 15°C, in July – 12°C, in September – 13°C.

However, there are two bays where it is shallow and the water is warmer:

✓ Mukhorsky Bay on the Irkutsk side

✓ Chivyrkuisky Bay in Buryatia

The water in them warms up to 23°C. Here swimming can begin in July and end in mid-September.

When going to Lake Baikal in the summer, you need to carefully study the information about forest fires. When the taiga is burning, neither the sun, nor the blue sky, nor the mountains are visible from all observation platforms and it becomes difficult to breathe.

What to do in summer? Visit the islands and neighboring bays, attractions, holy places. Go on a hike. You can see the habitats of seals - the charming Baikal seals.

➢ Winter Baikal has been attracting bloggers and celebrities from all over the world over the last decade. The reason for this is ice with photogenic cracks and bubbles of methane frozen at the time of freeze-up, grottoes and ice caves. To complete the picture, you need to see both summer and winter Baikal at least once

The winter season is also short: late February-March. In January, the ice already freezes, but the terrible cold and winds that can literally blow you off your feet will not allow you to enjoy your vacation. Moreover, there can be no talk of any photo shoots in dresses. And only by March the wind subsides, the air gets warmer, and walking and skating on the largest skating rink in the world becomes a joy. In April the ice already melts and becomes dangerous.

What to do in winter? Ride a dog sled, see an exhibition of ice sculptures, ski and snowboard.

➢ Autumn on Baikal is a season for aesthetes. If you can still swim until the end of September, then in October it is no longer possible. But this is the most beautiful month on the lake. The blue surface of the water is framed by the yellow-red-green lights of the trees. The sky is always clear, and there is peace and quiet all around. In November it gets colder, cloudy and snowy at times.

What to do in the fall? Until mid-October, excursions are still available to see the islands and attractions. It’s also possible to go hiking, stay overnight in a tent, warming yourself by the fire. Fish, hunt where allowed, and collect mushrooms.

➢ Spring on Baikal begins in April. This is not a popular time for tourists. The ice is melting, you can't swim, and the landscapes have not yet gained color. Nature is awakening, the first hungry ticks are crawling out. In May, wild rosemary blooms purple. In June the weather is even more spring-like

What to do in spring? Relax on the shore, go hiking. At the beginning of the first month of summer, water transport is launched: you can go on excursions. The biggest advantage of a spring holiday is the absence of crowds of tourists and low prices.

How to get there?

Baikal wolf... Well, almost)

How to get to Lake Baikal from Central Russia:

1. Get to Irkutsk or Ulan-Ude:

✓ By plane. A ticket from Moscow to Irkutsk can be bought for 6,000 rubles if you arrange the trip in advance. If this is not possible, then you should count on 10,000-12,000 rubles. A ticket to Ulan-Ude is usually one or two thousand cheaper. Flight time – 6 hours

It is convenient to search for tickets through aviasales. They also have a convenient mobile application.

✓ By train. A trip of 3.5 days on a reserved seat will cost 7,000 rubles per person

✓ Plane + train. If direct tickets are expensive, you can combine them. For example, for 6,000 rubles you can fly to Krasnoyarsk, see the city and from there for 2,000 rubles take a train to Irkutsk. Or fly to Ulan-Ude, get acquainted with the traditions of Buryatia, and from there take a train to Irkutsk overnight. The ticket costs 1,000 rubles, departure and arrival times are very convenient

2. Get to the city center from the airport.

From Irkutsk airport to the city you can take a taxi for 150-250 rubles. There is also a bus stop right there. Buses No. 20, 42, 21 go to the bus station in the center from 6.00 to 23.00; you can go there with luggage.

From Ulan-Ude airport, a taxi to the city will cost 400-500 rubles. If your luggage is only a backpack, from 6 am to 11 pm you can go to the bus station by minibus No. 77 and bus No. 10 for 24 rubles. Why only with a backpack? The bus stop is a 15-minute walk along an inconvenient road, and the minibus is inconvenient with luggage.

Winter sports and recreation on the lake

Fans of winter sports will not be bored on Lake Baikal. They have access to ski resorts and sled dog farms.

Mount Sobolinaya

• Address: Krasny Klyuch quarter, Baikalsk, Slyudyansky district.

The resort on Sobolina Mountain has been developing since 1991. Over the thirty years of its existence, it has turned into one of the most popular sports centers in Lake Baikal. On the slopes of the mountain there are slopes of varying difficulty, a cable car, and ski and snowboard rentals.

There are safe slides for children where they can go sledding or tubing. On the mountain there are tourist bases with comfortable rooms, baths and three meals a day.

Eastland Ski Resort

• Address: Akademicheskaya street, 12, Listvyanka village.

A large-scale sports complex is located in Listvyanka on the Chersky Stone mountain. On the vast territory there is a rental point for ski equipment, a cafe, parking and the Baikal country hotel.

Local trails are suitable for both beginners and professionals. There are 4 slopes in total ranging from 130 to 900 meters in length. Beginner skiers and snowboarders can use the services of an instructor.

At the top of the mountain there is an observation deck from which a breathtaking view of Lake Baikal and the surrounding area opens.

Baikal Sled Sports Center

• Address: st. Kulikova, 134A, Listvyanka.

This center is one of the main attractions of Listvyanka, which has no analogues on the entire Baikal coast. The base is home to more than 30 dogs trained to pull sleds. Tourists come here to get an unforgettable experience and experience of driving a dog sled.

The route runs along a frozen lake. Tourists, as a rule, are taken for a ride in a sleigh, but if they wish, they can test themselves by taking the place of the driver. Also popular is an activity called ski joring, the essence of which is that two sled dogs pull a skier behind them.

In addition to driving, tourists are given the opportunity to walk with dogs, take pictures and play with them. Huskies, Malamutes and Samoyeds have serious strength, but at the same time they are friendly and love “two-legged” animals, especially their cubs.

Where is better on Lake Baikal?

It’s good everywhere on Baikal, but everywhere it’s different

The lake is located on the border of two regions:

• Irkutsk region in the west
• Republic of Buryatia in the east

Despite the fact that this is the same lake, the specifics of recreation on the West and East coasts are different. The West is more progressive, the infrastructure is better developed here. The East is wilder and more traditional.

Where to go for beautiful ice in winter and where can you relax on Lake Baikal in summer?

West of Baikal (Listvyanka, Olkhon, Circum-Baikal Railway)

The Irkutsk side of Baikal is crowded, there are always tourists from all over the world. The most popular resorts are Listvyanka and Olkhon Island.

Listvyanka is the closest resort to Irkutsk, the gateway to the lake. Located an hour's drive from the city. Here:

✓ Starting point for numerous excursions to various attractions

✓ Many hotels and guest houses for different budgets

✓ Famous Fish Market, where you can try the freshest omul and grayling, buy unusual Buryat amulets

✓ Baikal Astrophysical Observatory and the world’s only Large Solar Vacuum Telescope, through which you can look at the sun and stars

✓ The beginning of the Great Baikal Trail - a 24 km long walking route with incredible views of the lake

But the locals smile condescendingly, saying that Listvyanka is not the real Baikal. Three days is enough, then you need to move on.

Olkhon is the heart of Baikal.

And again a quote from the locals: “If you haven’t seen Olkhon, you haven’t been to Baikal.” Although not all of the locals saw it. Here are the most famous landscapes of Lake Baikal:

✓ Rock Shaman

✓ A row of hitching posts with multi-colored ribbons – Serge

✓ In winter, in the vicinity of Olkhon, the most beautiful methane bubbles and grottoes with fabulous icicles

Getting to Olkhon from Irkutsk takes 5 hours. There are guest houses here, but the infrastructure is minimal, especially in winter. Many places are only open in the summer. The roads leave much to be desired, there is almost no civilization. Only nature. And that’s exactly what they come here for.

Maloye More is a part of the lake separated by Olkhon Island. Here are the Mukhorsky and Kurkutsky bays - the warmest places for swimming in the west with sandy beaches. All the coastlines of the bays are campsites and tourist centers; a purely beach holiday is possible here. There are also cafes and water activities.

Circum-Baikal Railway (CBZD) – in the southwest of Lake Baikal there is one of the most beautiful railways in the world. A dead-end line with a length of almost 90 km connects the section between the villages of Baikal and Slyudyanka.

An electric train, “matanya” as it is called here, runs between the terminal stations. Tickets can be purchased at the Russian Railways ticket office or from the conductor. Since this is an ordinary train, there is no pre-sale. Therefore, with seats, the number of passengers - depending on your luck! The fare is around 150 rubles one way. The train runs 4 times a week from Baikal - Monday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday and 5 times a week (+ Saturday) - from Slyudyanka. It is better to go from Slyudyanka to Baikal, the train departs at about 9.00 am, the journey takes 4.5 hours. The train leaves Baikal late in the evening, almost at 22.00.

Considering the difficulties of navigation and the lack of guarantees for the availability of seats, many tourists choose the excursion route along the Circum-Baikal Railway - the Circum-Baikal Express. This is significantly more expensive - a 10-12 hour tour costs ± 5,000 rubles per person. But it’s also simpler: they pick it up from the center of Irkutsk and bring it there. The price includes: bus, ferry, retro train, guide. Meals are paid separately. Tourists recommend taking a snack with you - it’s cheaper and you can take what you like: there’s not much choice on the train. You can book an excursion on the official website of the Circum-Baikal Railway - Circum-Baikal-Railway-Doroga.rf

In addition, there is a hiking trail along the legendary road. To complete it entirely you will need at least 4 days and an average level of athletic training.

One-day guided tours can be found on Tripster, for example, this route.

Slyudyanka is not only one of the end stations of the Circum-Baikal Railway, but also the starting point of two famous Baikal routes:

• The famous hiking trail to Chersky Peak - climbing the Khamar Daban ridge
• The road to the Tunka Valley is a beautiful 190 km route past extinct volcanoes, mountain lakes, and thermal springs. The most famous place in the valley is the Arshan resort: hot mineral springs awaiting guests all year round

Baikalsk is located in the very south of the lake. A famous local ski resort is located here.

East of Baikal (Buryatia)

The eastern coast of Lake Baikal is a wild holiday for those who come to take a break from civilization, and not for the sights. There is no resort infrastructure with a promenade, cafes and travel agencies, as in Listvyanka. But here the beaches are a wide strip of sand, not grass and pebbles, the water is warmer, there are fewer people, and nature is not inferior in its beauty to the West. It is better to go to the east in summer or autumn.

The Pribaikalsky region is the most convenient for recreation. Includes villages:

✓ Enkhaluk

✓ Turk

✓ Gremyachinsk

✓ Goryachinsk

The road from Ulan-Ude to any of the settlements takes a maximum of 2.5 hours. There are large shops, ATMs, cafes and fish markets, and many guest houses.

In Turk there is the Baikal Harbor embankment, where a luxury tourist area was planned. But millions went nowhere, and in the end there is nothing there except the embankment. Only in summer does the Alan Goa yurt camp open, and locals offer horseback riding. I vacationed there a couple of years ago (nothing has changed since then, as far as I know) - this is a good place to immerse yourself in the Buryat flavor. Where else, if not in Buryatia, can you live in a yurt?

Goryachinsk is famous for its healing mineral waters, sanatoriums and a branch of the Center for Oriental Medicine.

Everything to the north is considered the most environmentally friendly vacation spots in Buryatia. This is the village of Maksimikha, the Holy Nose Peninsula and the most famous bay of the east - Chivyrkuisky.

Chivyrkuisky Bay is similar to the Small Sea: it is fenced off from Lake Baikal by a peninsula and mountains, so the water is warm. There are few people here and a picturesque view of the mountains, from the tops of which the snow does not melt even in summer. There is a rather difficult hiking trail to the top of the Holy Nose peninsula, but the challenge is worth the scenery.

Further on there are only environmental protection zones - the Barguzinsky Nature Reserve and the Frolikhinsky Nature Reserve . Traveling around the Barguzinsky Nature Reserve is only on your own; at the entrance you need to register and pay for the number of days of stay.

Which direction should we go?

Some motorists dream of driving around the entire perimeter of the lake. However, this is impossible to do. There is no single transport route around Lake Baikal that can be traveled by car. You have to choose a route from those that are available.

On North

The northern coast is not suitable for traveling by car. There are many forests, rivers and streams, and the terrain is rocky. It is best to take the Severobaikalsk-Nizhneangarsk road. There are especially beautiful views, hot springs, Ayaya Bay, many mountain rivers and lakes.

South

The southern direction is the most popular among auto tourists. Highway R-258 “Baikal” - from Irkutsk to Ulan-Ude - runs along the southern coast of the lake.

What you can see when traveling south:

• waterfalls on the Podkomarnaya River;
• lake with emerald water;
• Cape Shamansky.

To the East

You can explore the eastern coast of the lake along the Barguzinsky tract (P438). The highway approaches the water only on the Maksimikha-Gremyachinsk section; the rest of the route lies at a distance from the lake. Not far from the highway is the Transbaikal National Park. There is an entrance fee.

What you can see in Transbaikalsky Park:

• thermal springs;
• rock ensembles;
• Lake Kotokel.

To the west

This is a real Mecca for fans of esotericism, mediums, shamans, etc. Baikal is considered the heart of Siberia, and Olkhon is the heart of Baikal itself.

Every year, despite the remoteness, about half a million people vacation here. From Irkutsk to Olkhon it is approximately 300 km, the route passes through Bayandai. A ferry regularly runs to the island from Sakhyurta.

What's interesting on Olkhon:

• Cape Khoboy and Shamanka rock;
• mud lakes;
• numerous tracts and gorges.

The eastern part of Olkhon is rocky. By car you can only drive along the Small Sea.

Coast of the Small Sea

Food prices

“...And how many fish did they eat!”

Baikal is not cheap. No matter what they write that the cost of a vacation depends only on desires and appetites, the reality is that you can’t come here on a budget for a couple of days. If you walk with a backpack and live in a tent, eating canned food, you still need to spend money on tickets. And if you relax in a separate room, go on excursions and eat in a cafe, then the prices are completely higher than expected from the Siberian outback. Some excursions cost as much as a decent tour in Europe.

When going to Olkhon or Chivyrkuisky Bay, take cash with you: there are no ATMs here, and you can’t pay by card everywhere. There are Sberbank ATMs in Listvyanka and large settlements on the east coast.

The main rule before traveling to any resort village is to buy food in advance at the city supermarket. Of course, there will be stores anywhere, but their selection and quality will not correspond to the price.

➢ If you are coming from the Irkutsk bus station, there is a Lenta hypermarket literally a 10-minute walk

➢ From the Ulan-Ude bus station – 5 minutes to the Absolut supermarket

In shops in the tourist area, prices will be 30% higher than in the city. In Irkutsk and Ulan-Ude, prices are the same as the Russian average.

In the Listvyanka cafe I drank a cappuccino for 200 rubles and ate a thin cheburek for 50 rubles - this was the cheapest lunch option. Main courses here cost at least 500 rubles. They say that prices are lower on Olkhon: borscht can be bought for 100 rubles. The price of omul depends on the size of the fish: from 150 to 350 rubles. Omul caviar costs 400 rubles, but there is nothing special about it, it’s better to buy fish.

Among the local dishes, besides fish, it is worth trying buuzy (aka poses). Similar to khinkali, but with holes on top. They eat them with their hands. Cost – 80-100 rubles per piece. In Irkutsk it is almost 2 times cheaper.

Barguzinsky Bay and the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula

This largest and deepest bay of Baikal is located on the eastern part of the lake. The long sandy beach that stretches along the northern shore will lead you to the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula - a haven for a beach holiday. To dive and relax in the sun, come here at the beginning of August: just when the water warms up.

The sandy strip is surrounded by dense forest and has a peaceful and secluded atmosphere. The entrance to the lake is gentle, so you can come with children. There are several settlements nearby where you can hire a guide, grab a bite to eat, or rent fishing equipment. Holy Nose is popular with climbers. While you climb up, you will pick up mushrooms and berries along the way.

In the village of Ust-Barguzin there are boarding houses and tourist centers. Guides organize scuba diving, sailing, and sightseeing trips. Behind the bay beach there is a valley with hot springs - a cool option if you come in winter or in the off-season. In the village of Maksimikha there is a Cossack park-museum “Svetlaya Polyana”. The park is stylized as a fortified settlement, and in addition to interesting excursions, you can try homemade Siberian cuisine and learn wood carving.

Housing prices

View from the window of the Nebo Baikal guest house, where I lived

A surprise awaited me here. When vacationing in Russia, I expect a certain level of comfort for the amount of 2,000 rubles per night. Usually for this price, even in Moscow, the room has a toilet and a bath/shower with hot water.

But not in Listvyanka. For the amount of 1,800 rubles per night, I was offered a room that had:

➢ 2 beds

➢ Table

➢ Washstand (the water ran out there on the first day)

All! It was cold to get to the common toilet, shower and kitchen.

True, it must be said that the hotel itself was located in the center. This was the cheapest option with a lake view. In my opinion, the location still outweighed the disadvantages. The only cheaper place was in a hostel 20 minutes walk from the center - 700 rubles.

You can search for housing on Lake Baikal through:

• Booking
• Sutochno.ru

The entire house costs from 3,000 rubles.

For a comfortable hotel in 2022 you will have to pay at least 5,000 rubles.

There are no hostels on Olkhon and in the east of Baikal, only guest houses and camp sites. Accommodation costs from 2,000 rubles/night for a double room.

Keep in mind that in winter the choice is reduced to just a few hotels. For example, the most popular tourist complex in Khuzhir (Olkhon), SaRaisky, welcomes guests only from May to October. Places there need to be booked sooooo much in advance, the cost starts from 6,100 rubles for a double house.

Look for and book accommodation on Lake Baikal, the sooner the better. The choice is not very large, and over the past couple of years it has become even smaller: tourist centers and guest houses are closing due to non-compliance with environmental standards. The loudest such story happened with the Baikalov Ostrog hotel complex, popular among tourists. The place was known for its optimal price/quality ratio (although there were complaints about the quality itself). The complex is now closed and must be demolished by court decision.

Ushkany Islands

A group of four small islands is located 7 kilometers from the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula. This is an area with a unique microclimate: be prepared for high humidity and sudden rain. The name is also not simple: local residents called hares “ushkans”, but not the carrot lovers we are used to, but sea hares - seals. Indeed, cute Baikal seals live here. Animals lazily bask on the shore and boulders. Moreover, seal colonies are quite large: sometimes you can see more than 2 thousand individuals dozing peacefully under the sun.

The Ushkany Islands are interesting at any time of the year. In winter, seals give birth to their young. In summer, you can explore giant anthills more than 2 meters high here. And on the islands they found sites of ancient people from the Paleolithic times - this is how you travel through time.

And in general, it is very picturesque here: a panorama of Lake Baikal opens from the hills, field grasses begin to bloom in the spring, and with the onset of autumn you can watch the migration of birds.

Transport on Baikal

Khivus is a hovercraft, the safest way to travel on ice in the off-season

Perhaps the most difficult part of planning a trip to Baikal on your own.

There are two options for moving around the area:

• by car
• by public transport

Most tourists fly to Irkutsk. And if everything is clear with moving around the city, getting to the lake itself is not so easy. From public transport, minibuses go to almost any of the settlements. They are small, a lot of people are packed into the salon. In general, the situation is the same as everywhere else in Russia. The schedule can be viewed on the Irkutsk bus station website avtovokzal-on-line.ru (there is also a schedule from Ulan-Ude). The average fare is 700-1000 rubles per person, depending on the distance.

If a trip is planned to Olkhon Island, then there is an obstacle: water. How it is overcome depends on the season.

➢ from May 1 to October 31: ferry crossing from Sakhyurta. The minibus is loaded onto the ferry, or on the other side guests are transferred to local transport

Public transport is serviced without a queue, while independent motorists wait for hours during the peak season, in July-August!

➢ in February-March, when the ice is strong, transport travels on the ice

➢ from November to early February and in April, guests are transferred to khivus - hovercraft. This is the only way to move around in the off-season. It costs an additional 400 rubles for travel.

Olkhon Express minibuses run on Olkhon Island itself. Website: olkhon-express.ru. You can order a transfer to the hotel by phone.

From Irkutsk to Baikal in the summer (June-September) you can get by water on the passenger ships Raketa and Kometa. They depart from the river station in the very center of the city. A ticket to Listvyanka costs 600 rubles, to the village of Bolshie Koty - 1,200 rubles, to Olkhon - 3,500 rubles. In the warm season, this is the most comfortable, beautiful and fastest way to travel.

Rent a Car

Retro photo from my childhood trip to Baikal

Going to Baikal by car is the best solution for those who are driving. But if residents of Siberia and Transbaikalia can get to the lake by their own transport, then traveling from remote areas is a so-so idea. In this case, it is better to rent a car.

Popular booking services in Irkutsk include:

• rentalcars.com – cost for 3 days from 12,000 rubles per car
• qeeq.com – cost for 3 days from 12,000 rubles per car

You can look for local companies. The company ARGET operates in Irkutsk and Ulan-Ude, the deposit in which is one of the minimum: 3,000-5,000 rubles. The driver must be at least 23 years old at the time of rental. You will need a passport and a cash deposit.

Which car to choose depends on the route. The roads to Listvyanka or Goryachinsk are good, you can take an economy option there: a sedan from 1,500 rubles per day. But if the path lies to Olkhon or to the wild places of the northeast - only a crossover. The price for such a unit starts from 3,400 rubles per day.

When planning a car trip to Baikal on your own, you need to take into account the travel season and route. The eastern part can be visited at any time of the year. It only makes sense to go to Olkhon by car:

➢ From May to October, when the ferry service in Sakhyurt operates. It is free, but during the peak season from July to August the queue for the ferry can last for hours

➢ In February-March, when the winter road on the ice of Baikal to the island of Olkhon - Kurkut - Irkutsk Bay officially opens. The opening date of the winter road is always at different times and depends on the thickness of the ice. Official measurements are taken and the safest path is laid, limited by milestones, beyond which you must under no circumstances drive

Moving on the ice of Lake Baikal with your own transport outside the established routes is extremely dangerous. Several cars go under the ice every year. Therefore, it is better to go to explore the ice with a guide. Excursions on the ice are made in UAZs, jeeps, snowmobiles and Khivus (the safest, but most expensive option).

What to take with you?

If there are several thousand kilometers ahead, the car should be as prepared as possible for a long trip. Go to the service station in advance - let the technicians carefully check the condition of the car and carry out appropriate maintenance.

You may need different things along the way. Start packing a few days before your trip. Better yet, make a list so you don’t forget anything.

You must have a standard auto traveler kit:

• documents for the car;
• passport and driving license;
• all passengers must also carry identification documents;
• if you drive a car with a power of attorney, you must also have it with you;
• a first aid kit, which contains medications for colds, gastrointestinal disorders, antihistamines, painkillers and antipyretics.

In the warm season there are a lot of ticks on Lake Baikal. Especially in May-June. Be sure to carry aerosols to repel parasites. If you do get bitten by a tick, remove it entirely and consult a doctor as soon as possible.

When going to almost wild places, don’t rely too much on ATMs. They are available only in large populated areas, and card payments are rare here. Take more cash.

Bring paper road maps, as far from cities there is often no connection, and the GPS navigator information is not always true.

Lake coast from Sarma

What to see?

On the right photo – Baikal Astrophysical Observatory

The most important question of any independent trip. Baikal is nature. But where exactly should we look at it and how best to do it?

My route

Visitors to Lake Baikal are divided into two types:

➢ whom he attracts with his energy again and again

➢ who doesn’t find anything special here

Yes, there are also restrained reviews from tourists about their holidays on Lake Baikal. It seems to me that the season shapes the impression. I am one of the few people who is not fascinated by summer Baikal: it’s just a cold sea and ordinary Siberian nature. But autumn and winter Baikal is something incredible for me.

At the end of February 2022, having lived next to the lake for 17 years, I went there for the first time in winter, saw its ice and was stunned. Since I was a lone independent traveler with three free days, my choice fell on Listvyanka.

Having reached Irkutsk from Ulan-Ude by train, I stocked up on provisions in Lenta near the bus station and boarded a minibus. My guest house Sky of Baikal was 5 minutes from the ticket office. This is the best place for a winter stop: near a market, a cafe, an observatory, both tourist centers: Dauria and Lotsman, the final stop of water and land transport and taxis. But the most important thing is that it is in this part of the resort that the ice is clean, not covered with snow, and incredible hummocks are formed - blue blocks of ice taller than a person.

At one of the travel agencies you can take an excursion on a hivus either to Peschanaya Bay behind the village of Bolshoye Goloustnoye, or to the Circum-Baikal Railway. But it’s better to book an excursion in advance, because I didn’t have time - two days later there were no places. From the ticket office you can take a minibus to Khuzhir for 1,500 rubles.

However, I found something to do:

✓ I walked up to the Chersky stone to look at the only place on Lake Baikal that never freezes - the source of the Angara

If you wish, you can also spend the day skiing or snowboarding at the Eastland ski complex. But it is not suitable for riders: the slope is almost childish

✓ Wandered around transparent Baikal, climbed hummocks and took endless photographs

✓ Met sunrises and saw off sunsets. This is the most beautiful time here: when the sun is refracted in the ice floes, drawing familiar scenes in our imagination. This is called pareidolia. On Lake Baikal you need to watch the sunrise and spend the sunset at least once

✓ I went to the observatory at the Institute of Solar-Terrestrial Physics SB RAS. Few people know about her, and not a single blogger writes about her. Meanwhile, here you can look at the sun through a telescope, the equivalent of which is only in the USA

The schedule of excursions can be found on the official website of the Institute of Solar-Terrestrial Physics - ru.iszf.irk.ru/Organization_of_excursions

✓ And of course, I ate a lot of omul, bought a figurine of Burkhanchik - a symbol of the lake and earrings made of charoite - a mineral that was discovered in these parts

I think that Listvyanka is a great place to get to know the lake. And if you still manage to go on an excursion or get to Olkhon and see the grottoes and bubbles, then the winter program can be considered completed!

Best excursions

Hummocks are blocks of ice that form during freezing.

The route can be designed in different ways, based on the chosen method of travel and the amount of time available. If you wish, you can travel all over Lake Baikal in a month, moving from Olkhon through Slyudyanka to Buryatia. But if you have two weeks left, then you need to take someone’s side: Western or Eastern.

➢ If you are on the lake for the first time or traveling alone, it is better to go west. In winter, it is also better to go to the Irkutsk side: excursions are organized here in resort areas, and you need to go to the ice with knowledgeable people

➢ If you want adventure and non-standard Baikal, go east with a mandatory visit to the datsans (Buddhist temples) of Buryatia

Olkhon and Small Sea

The center of tourism on Olkhon is the village of Khuzhir. You can come here immediately upon arrival in Irkutsk, or from Listvyanka. The main thing is to take into account the nuance with the crossing.

If in summer the water on the Olkhon beaches seems cold, then you can spend part of your vacation in Kurkut on the Small Sea - a minibus from Khuzhir to Irkutsk passes through it.

What to do on Olkhon?

There are two types of excursions: to the south and to the north of the island. They are carried out by locals in “loaves” (UAZs). If it's winter, then on ice.

➢ South is the Small Sea. This is where you need to look for ice with methane bubbles and ice grottoes in winter. Also in the south, you should definitely visit the island of Ogoy. At its top there is the Stupa of Enlightenment, from where an incredible view of Lake Baikal opens, and all negative emotions go away

➢ The North is the wild nature of Cape Khoboy. It is better to go here in the summer on a sunny day, because it is here that you can, even from afar, see the rookery of seals - seals that live only on Lake Baikal

You can sign up at your hotel or guest house. As a rule, each owner has contact information for a travel agency. The price of a group excursion is 1,500-2,000 rubles per person.

Excursions on Lake Baikal are most often carried out on “loaves”

If the company is large, it is better to take an individual excursion. The cost depends on transport and the number of people: 10,000-13,000 rubles per company. You can look at the options on Tripster - they have a good selection of original tours from Olkhon.

In summer, boat excursions are also organized to the eastern part of the lake. To immerse yourself in the national flavor, a visit to a Buryat village will be interesting. It is located in the village of Maly Khuzhir, 4 km from Khuzhir. What is there to do? Visit a real yurt, watch the national Buryat dance - yokhor, eat poses.

While in Khuzhir, you should definitely visit the hallmark of Lake Baikal - Cape Burkhan. Statues of the lake’s patron saint are named after him; people make wishes and meditate here. On the approach to the cape there are Serge hitching posts and trees with ribbons. This place is “obo”, here you need to “mumble”: leave some change, a ribbon or splash some alcohol to appease the spirits. Then you can go to the Shamanka rock. You should watch the sunrise or spend the sunset here at least once.

Listvyanka and Circum-Baikal Railway

The ice-free source of the Angara from the observation deck at the Chersky Stone in Listvyanka

In summer, Listvyanka is not suitable for swimming: pebbles, a lot of people, ferries. Therefore, it’s worth coming here just for the sights:

➢ The Circum-Baikal Railway is the most beautiful railway in Russia and an architectural monument of the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. It runs along the shore of the lake from Slyudyanka to Baikal station.

Going to Baikal on your own in the summer, you can get to Listvyanka in a very unusual way, combining the road with an excursion: arriving from Irkutsk on a steam train from the early 20th century. To do this, you need to book an excursion from Irkutsk to Listvyanka on the Circum-Baikal Railway website (Circum-Baikal-railway-doroga.rf). It will take a day with all the stops for photos and will cost 4,400 rubles. In winter, excursions on khivus are organized towards the Circum-Baikal Railway: from 2,500 rubles (in Dauria tour) to 5,000 rubles (in Lotsman). In summer – boat tours from 1500 rubles per person. You can go this route on your own in 4-5 days.

➢ The Chersky Stone is the most important attraction of Listvyanka. This is an observation deck from where you can see where Baikal and Angara merge - the only river flowing from the lake. The place is named after the Polish geologist who explored the lake in exile. Here, too, you need to offer a gift to the spirits; ribbons are hung. Shamans call the peak the meeting place of two worlds. You can get here on the Eastland Park cable car: about 200 rubles for the ride. And go down on foot. The only thing is that it’s better to take a taxi to the park, because walking 7 km from Listvyanka is very tiring

Almost any sightseeing tour to Baikal from Irkutsk includes a visit to the Chersky stone. Private tours can be found on Tripster

➢ Baikal Astrophysical Observatory of the Institute of Solar-Terrestrial Physics SB RAS - this is my personal wish, as a person who loves space and everything connected with it. It is located a 20-minute walk from the Listvyanka ticket office. It is better to book an excursion in advance (ru.iszf.irk.ru/Organization_of excursions) by contacting the staff by phone. If the weather worsens, the organizers call back and reschedule for another time. Costs 800 rubles, you will have to walk a lot

➢ Peschanaya Bay (35 km from Bolshoi Goloustnoye) is a very picturesque place on the western coast, which can only be reached by water. In winter there is an incredible view of the ice, in summer you can swim and enjoy the beauty

An excursion to Peschanaya Bay in 2022 in winter cost 6,000 rubles, the price for summer so far is 4,000 rubles

➢ Hiking along the Great Baikal Trail - a hiking route among the mountains, along Lake Baikal from Listvyanka to the village of Bolshoye Goloustnoye. Lasts 5-6 hours

Chivirkuysky Bay, the Holy Nose Peninsula and Buryatia

Gate to the Ivolginsky datsan in Buryatia

The eastern side is more popular with locals than tourists. Usually everyone travels nearby - to Enkhaluk or Goryachinsk.

But if you come from afar, it’s still worth getting to Chivyrkuisky Bay . It is located between the mainland and the Holy Nose Peninsula.

It’s difficult to get here without a car or an excursion. First you need to take a minibus to Ust-Barguzin. Then find a taxi (which is difficult) and get to Monakhovo: that’s where Zmeinaya Bay is located, where there is warm water, hot springs, picturesque views and a bit of civilization. The desperate can, of course, walk 43 km.

You can get here with a guided tour from Olkhon for 8,000 rubles. But the most comfortable way to get there is from Ulan-Ude. It is better to look for group tours from local companies, I went with Barguzin Tour, I liked it. A one-day trip costs about 2,000 rubles. If you are traveling with a group, you can choose the appropriate option on Tripster. The price for an excursion for 3-4 people is 12,000-15,000 rubles.

On the top of the Holy Nose the snow does not melt until mid-summer. There is a walking trail for experienced tourists: you can test your strength by climbing to a height of 1,877 m.

Behind the peninsula is the protected area of ​​Ushkany Island , where seals bask in the sun. Going here is expensive and only makes sense on a sunny July day with calm water. You can rent a boat in Ust-Barguzin or Monakhovo, which will cost at least 20,000 rubles per company, or you can join an excursion from Ulan-Ude for 7,000 rubles per person.

When going to the Buryat side of Lake Baikal, you cannot do without visiting the capital of the republic - the city of Ulan-Ude . In addition to the famous Lenin's head on the square, you should definitely get acquainted with Buddhism here. Usually, when flying to Thailand or Vietnam, Russians are fascinated by Buddhist processions and visit temples with interest. Being unaware that all the same things exist in their country. Worship of spirits, recitation of mantras, symbolism of flowers, rituals and teachings of Buddha - all this is found in Buryatia.

The best place to immerse yourself in the atmosphere is datsan - a Buddhist temple. The most famous in Ulan-Ude is the Ivolginsky datsan. It is more interesting to visit with a guide who will explain all the rituals.

There is another one, authentic and non-tourist - the Barguzin datsan and the face of the goddess Yanzhima next to it. People come here to ask for a child, husband or wife. Knowledgeable people come to Buryatia specifically for this, and the atmosphere here is incredible. The place is located near the Holy Nose peninsula; you can drive from Chivyrkuisky Bay in 2 hours by car. Two-day tour for 10 people to the Barguzinsky datsan from Ulan-Ude on Tripster.

Where to go on vacation?

According to tourists, the western shore of the lake is more acceptable for summer holidays on Lake Baikal, especially with tents. It is flatter and great for traveling with children. The main tourist routes run along it and there are many places where savages can stay.

Listvyanka village

About 70 km from Irkutsk along the Baikal highway. Accommodation for every taste and price; you can rent cottages on the shore for a large group.

Things to do? In the village there are several museums, cafes, an embankment with a market where they sell peled (maybe omul), and there are places with paid gazebos by the water. You can try crossing the Angara towards the Circum-Baikal Railway. To do this, in the morning at 6.40 local time we set off to the other side of the coast. We advise you to cross back at 18.15, by this time there will be fewer people. See the exact schedule on the VSRP website.

Must-sees: Limnological Museum, nerpinarium, cable car, equestrian center. You can go kayaking or SUP surfing at the local diving center.

There is a transfer from Irkutsk to Listvyanka from the bus station and the central market (the cost of travel by minibus is 150 rubles, the bus is cheaper).

Olkhon Island

Housing can be rented in the village of Khuzhir without intermediaries from 800 rubles per day (with amenities on the street), but it is better to book recreation centers via the Internet in the spring. During the season you will not find places even in remote places.

What to see? A huge number of places where locals conduct excursions, the cost starts from 900 rubles for sightseeing programs. We definitely recommend seeing: Cape Khoboy - Uzury, Ogoy Island, Idiba Deep and the healing salt lake Shara-Nur, Cape Mare's Head and Lake Nuku-Nur, Shamanka rock and Peschanaya Bay with stilted trees.

All sights of Olkhon.

You can get there by bus, by car or minibuses from Irkutsk. Travel time to Khuzhir will be about 4 hours including the crossing. But at the crossing during the season there are queues in both directions! To avoid this, we recommend going to Baikal in the middle of the week. We leave back any day in the morning, except Sunday.

• We recommend watching a unique video review of Olkhon Island:

Arshan

Where is the best place to relax in the mountains in the summer on Lake Baikal? Most tourists will answer - at the Arshan . There are several sanatoriums, hotels and recreation centers . You can also rent private housing directly without intermediaries, the cost per season starts from 800 rubles for accommodation in good conditions.

What to visit? Mineral springs in Arshan itself and its surroundings, be sure to get some water, waterfalls along the Kyngyrga River. It’s worth visiting local cafes and trying Buryat cuisine. First of all, we order buzy from minced meat, then sagudai. You can go to the Nile Desert and swim in radon baths.

Severobaykalsk

The surrounding area of ​​the city is rich in thermal springs.

What to see? Ayaya Bay, where you can see seals and Lake Frolikha, BAM, the hot spring Khakusy, Goudzhekit and Kotelnikovsky springs, Big Slyudyanskoye Lake, which warms up to +25°C in summer, the Evenki Fairy Tale tourist complex.

Climbers come to Severobaikalsk to conquer Mount Chersky, rafters come to raft on the Tyya River. You can get there by train from Moscow, local airlines or by boat from Irkutsk.

Slyudyanka

We advise you to stay not in Slyudyanka itself, but in the village of Utulik ( selection of accommodation in Utulik ). In the summer here you can buy delicious strawberries and go on an excursion to the mountains, ride catamarans at the nearest camp sites.

Must-sees: the unique railway station made of marble, the museum-estate “Gems of Baikal”, the cliff “Bird Market” - the nesting place of the herring gull, Chersky Peak and Lake Heart. We definitely recommend getting to Baikalsk, there is an observation deck on Mount Sobolinaya, the cost of the climb is 230 rubles. You can also drive to Warm Lakes with your own car; by the way, there is an online camera on the Internet where you can see a picturesque view of Lake Skazka.

The most convenient way to travel from Irkutsk to Slyudyanka is by train (travel time is about 4 hours). Be careful in your car, the road includes many turns and serpentines in the Kultuk area, stay away from trucks.

Small Sea

An area near the coast with a huge number of recreation centers for every taste and cost. A vacation on Lake Baikal in the summer on the Small Sea will be ideal for a family trip. The most popular place among Russians, where it is worth going for a week or more. When planning your vacation, we advise you to be guided by our selection of the best camp sites on the Small Sea .

What to do and what to see? Mostly people come here for a relaxing holiday and walks along the lake; for active young people we recommend staying in Zuun-Hagun; in the summer season, Irkutsk night clubs often hold Open Air nightclubs here.

Road to the village of Arshan

Where to go with children?

Traveling to the lake with a small child is problematic. Unless you drive your own car and are not afraid of long journeys. For holidays with children, it is better to choose Listvyanka, Arshan, Slyudyanka (or nearby Utulik). They are easier to get to, where you can find baby food and a good hotel. For children from 8 to 16 years old, a children's camp Baikal-Lingua - Olkhon is opened every summer on Olkhon Island. Children relax, learn English and take excursions around the island.

If you are concerned about the issue of a long holiday on Lake Baikal with children and swimming, then we definitely recommend the Small Sea, in the bays the water is warmest and the shore is flat.

How much does it cost to go to Baikal?

Another retro photo from the family archive. But Baikal is still the same!

Let's calculate the vacation option: a week's vacation on Lake Baikal on our own, together, traveling by public transport. Suitable for both summer and winter trips.

• Round-trip air tickets from Moscow to Irkutsk: 7,000*4 = 28,000 rubles
• Travel to the bus station by bus: 25*2 = 50 rubles
• Travel to Listvyanka by minibus 153*2 = 306 rubles
• Guest house in Khuzhir for 2 nights: 1,800*2 = 3,600 rubles
• Ascent to the Chersky Stone: round-trip taxi 200*2 = 400 rubles + tickets for the cable car 200*2 = 400 rubles. Total 800 rubles
• Visit to the observatory: 800*2 = 1,600 rubles
• Tickets to Khuzhir: 1,500*2 = 3,000 rubles
• 3 nights in a guest house in Khuzhir: 2,000*3 = 6,000 rubles
• Excursion to the south of the island: 1,300*2 = 2,600 rubles
• Tickets to Irkutsk: 1,000*2 = 2,000 rubles
• Night in Irkutsk: 1,400 rubles
• Taxi to the airport: 150 rubles
• Food at the rate of 600 rubles per person per day: 600*2*7 = 8,400 rubles

Total: 57,906, rounded up to 60,000 rubles for two per week.

The most expensive part of the budget is tickets. You can cut your food budget in half if you buy groceries in advance and eat outside of cafes.

Holidays on Lake Baikal in the summer of 2022 are unlikely to be much different in price if you live in a hotel.

If you go on a week-long trip by car and take a tent with you, you can save about 10,000 rubles. In addition, if there are more than two passengers, renting will be more profitable. There are quite a lot of reviews on the forums that a trip to Baikal on your own can be quite inexpensive - 20,000 rubles per person. But this seems to me completely beyond the boundaries of comfortable travel.

You can look for classic tours to Baikal: flights + accommodation; sometimes this can be cheaper than booking the same segments separately on your own. Personally verified tour search aggregators:

• Travelata
• Level-Travel
• Onlinetours

Small Sea

The Small Sea is hidden between Olkhon and the western shore of Lake Baikal. The beach season starts here at the end of July, and this secluded spot is great for swimming. Beautiful scenery, clear water and soft sand - ideal for outdoor recreation. On the shore you can set up a tent camp or check into a camp site, where guests are greeted with delicious lunches and a Russian bathhouse.

In addition, there is excellent fishing here. Depending on the season, in the Small Sea you can catch the famous Baikal omul, perch or grayling. The bite is so good that fishing tours are organized here at any time of the year. The soup turns out to be, as they say, finger-licking good! Transport accessibility is excellent: there are roads, public transport is available, you can order a taxi or a transfer to the tourist center.

How to get to Baikal

By train

There are direct trains from Moscow to Slyudyanka 1, Baykalsk and Mysovaya stations; the journey will take 3–3.5 days. From St. Petersburg you will have to travel with a transfer in Moscow or Irkutsk.

By plane

The closest airport to Lake Baikal is in Irkutsk. From there, it is convenient to travel by train or train to the southeast of the lake (Kultuk, Tunkinskaya Valley, Baikalsk, Kultushnaya, Baikalsky Surf). Buses and ships go to other places. A good idea is to rent a car right at the Irkutsk airport.

An alternative airport is in Ulan-Ude, from where you can continue your journey to Baikal by train, train or bus.

Ethnographic complex "Taltsy"

The village of Taltsy is located only 50 kilometers from Irkutsk and at the same time remains a very authentic place. The ethnographic museum of the same name is a unique collection of monuments of wooden architecture. Huts, turrets, estates, churches - a whole historical town under the open sky. There are only forests and endless green meadows around, birds are circling in the sky, and the aromas of baking are in the air and you can hear the sound of forging iron. Atmospheric!

“Taltsy” is divided into four zones: Russian, Buryat, Evenki and Tofalar. They will tell you in detail about each culture, and their everyday life will be clearly demonstrated. Various master classes are held here, and you can buy souvenirs made from birch bark or clay. For complete immersion, all museum workers wear traditional costumes. They also offer horseback riding, tasting national cuisine and listening to choral singing.

Find the seal's house

Only on Baikal can you see these innocent round eyes, erect mustaches and touching short flippers: the Baikal seal is not found anywhere else. It is better to make a date where the seals are in their native element, for example, on the Ushkany Islands. Seals have chosen this archipelago for their rookeries, so the chances of seeing them are greatest here. They get to the Ushkany Islands by excursion boat from Olkhon Island or from Ust-Barguzin. And all summer long you can spy on the seals from the comfort of your couch through a webcam installed on one of the islands.

Photo: Sergey Gabdurakhmanov, CC BY 2.0

If you are not ready to sail to the Ushkany Islands, you can try your luck right on Olkhon, where seals often appear at the foot of Cape Khoboy. You will have to watch from afar, but do not disturb shy animals. There, on Olkhon, excursions are organized to the island of Zamogoy - another residence of pinnipeds. And the easiest and most guaranteed way to see the Baikal seal is to go to the nerpinarium in Listvyanka, where you can even take a photo with the seal.

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