This place is underestimated in vain: a great guide to Abkhazia

Abkhazia is a country of natural wonders, friendliness and hospitality, excellent cuisine and rich history. It stretches on the shores of two seas - the Ionian and Adriatic, and in the inland there are several large lakes with incredible turquoise water. Most of the Abkhaz territory is mountains, dizzying with their beauty and hiding cozy castles and ancient fortresses among green forests and well-groomed groves. In every Abkhaz city, parks and squares, gardens and museums, fortresses and statues await tourists. The attractions of Abkhazia are varied and numerous. Where to start?

Lake Ritsa

Although the country is small, when a tourist arrives here, he often finds himself in a dilemma - where to go on excursions in Abkhazia first? Guides recommend starting from Lake Ritsa. It is compared to a magical portal and called the most magical place in the world. The alpine lake, 2 km long and 131 m deep, is filled with clean, transparent water, so the bottom can be seen even through a 10-meter thickness. Ritsa is located in the northwestern part of the country on the territory of a national relict park named after the lake. The park was founded in 1996, occupies 40 thousand hectares and territories from close to sea level to 3 thousand km rising into the sky. The lake itself is located at 950 meters above sea level and is of glacial-tectonic origin.

They say that in the past a turbulent mountain river flowed on the site of the lake. Due to the earthquake, part of the Pshegishkha mountains collapsed, stones fell into the Lashipse riverbed, forming an insurmountable barrier to water. This happened approximately in the 18-19th century. The modern lake is located in a bowl of the Atsetuk, Arikhua, and Pshegishkha mountains. Since this is a mountain reservoir, the water in it is cool - no warmer than 18 degrees. In winter the surface freezes. The color of the lake depends on the climate, weather, and time of year: in summer it is yellow-green, in the cool season it is blue-blue. Several rivers and streams flow into the lake, and the Yupshera River flows out.

It is better to enjoy the nature of the main attraction of Abkhazia as part of an excursion tour. Mostly these are day-long programs that involve a transfer from the resort to a high-mountainous area, an hour's rest on the lake, sightseeing, visiting the embankment and restaurants. The pristine appearance of the mountain lake has made Ritsu a must-visit destination. Some even say: if you haven’t been to Ritsa, you haven’t been to Abkhazia.

It is not possible to get to the lake by public transport. There are two main options – a trip with a tour or on your own by car. You can order a taxi, but this service is expensive. On the territory of Ritsinsky Park you can spend the night in the boarding house "Audhara", offering houses for 5 residents. For those who like to spend the night outdoors, the best option is to pitch a tent. If you don’t have any equipment with you, you can rent a tent and bedding. In addition, catamarans are available for rent on the lake, and there are places for amateur fishing (equipment is available for rental). An excursion to Lake Ritsa departing from Gagra can be found here:

On the way to the incredible Ritsa - Blue Lake. An unusual local legend is associated with this region. In the past, a wise hermit lived in a cave near a pond. Once he sheltered robbers for the night and paid for it with his life. That same night, the waters of the lake turned the color of his eyes. Scientists explain the origin of the color more simply - the bottom is covered with lapis lazuli (blue rock).

How to get to the border and cross it?

Attention!

On the edge of the queue!

If you arrive at Sochi airport (Adler) or arrive at the railway station, call a taxi from there to the border. This is the most convenient and fastest way to get to it. The drive from the airport is only 12 km, and there is public transport from central Sochi, where the railway station is located. True, rarely and very slowly.

The border feels somehow conditional, but still there is one, and even two: on the side of Russia and Abkhazia. To check your documents, you only need a Russian or foreign passport. Everyone crosses the border only on foot, except for car drivers. Crossing the border can take from 10 minutes to several hours. It depends on the season and time of day. Border guards on the Russian side check documents and sometimes things more carefully.

New Athos Cave

New Athos Cave is another natural attraction of the region. This cave is one of the largest in the world accessible to the non-specialist. It competes with the world famous Škocianska in Slovenia and Carlsbad in the USA. The internal cavity is estimated at 3 million cubic meters. This is a beautiful place that combines various reliefs: underground lakes, stalactites, stalagmites, frozen waterfalls. To enhance the atmosphere, local illumination with white and red lamps was organized, creating a mysterious atmosphere and allowing you to move around in the cave without additional lighting equipment.

It is better to see the cave as part of a group excursion - this way the risk of getting lost is minimal. All offers departing from Gagra can be found here:.

The attraction was discovered in 1961 by Givi Smyr, who eventually became the director of this place. Visitors have been allowed into the cave since 1975, but some parts are closed - only scientists work there, since human presence changes the microclimate of the cavities. The complex includes 11 halls, 6 of which are available to tourists on any day. The other five open according to an individual schedule.

The New Athos Cave is open daily in summer from 9 am to 7 pm; from October to May visitors are allowed 4 days a week. Admission for children under 8 years old is free; adults will have to pay 500 rubles. If filming is planned, an additional contribution is 50 rubles. Excursions to the cave are sold at ticket offices and travel agencies. Guests enter the inner area by small train and continue exploring the underground wildlife on foot. All the halls are safe, and the guides sincerely love what they do, so the visit leaves a strong impression. The temperature in the internal cavities is usually below 14 degrees, so warm clothing is needed for a comfortable stay.

Cave halls:

• Anakopia is the deepest, the first explored by a pioneer, and includes two underground lakes;
• Mahadzhirov is the largest hall of the complex, named in memory of the forced resettlement of Abkhazians to Turkey;
• Nartaa - a hall with a lake inhabited by crustaceans and walls covered with clay;
• Speleologists - the most comfortable room with a pleasant atmosphere, low humidity, warm air;
• Givi Smyr – a hall with a stone jellyfish and colored limestone walls;
• Ayukhaa is a huge hall with an unusual wall relief, black horizontal stripes on a yellow background and an abundance of red and yellow stalagmites;
• Apsny – a hall with a four-meter stalagmite and a 30-meter boulder along which water always flows;
• Apkhyartsa – a hall with the strongest acoustics, named after the folk musical instrument;
• Moscow is a predominantly closed, shallow hall;
• Corallite gallery - a hall with white corals fused along the walls;
• The helictite grotto is a hall where visitors are very rarely allowed due to the risk of harming nature. Helictites are stalactites that grow diagonally upward. In the New Athos cave, the helictites are red, pink, brown, and grow against the background of white walls. Next to them are many yellow, green, purple, red stalagmites.

Antiquities

Among the historical sites of Abkhazia, we also visited dolmens dating back to the 2nd millennium BC. They are located near the village of Otkhara. The dolmens are not guarded by anyone; they are located among the thickets. The most important of them, with a double cromlech, has been cleared.

Cromlech is a Celtic word and refers to concentric circles made of stones. In the center of the cromlech there is usually a dolmen or megalithic temple (as in Malta). Especially many cromlechs were found in Britain. The most famous of them is Stonehenge.

Next to the main one there is another dolmen, and behind it - another. It is obvious that in ancient times there was a sanctuary here and ritual actions took place. However, the thickets in this place are thorny, the paths are not obvious, you won’t walk for a long time, otherwise, perhaps, we would have found a couple more megaliths.

We also had a stop near the Great Abkhazian Wall (another name for the wall is Kelasur). According to one version, this 160-kilometer wall was built by the ancient Greeks to protect their colonies on the Black Sea. According to another version, the wall was erected in the 5th–6th centuries during the confrontation between Iran and Byzantium, who fought for influence in these lands.

The Great Abkhaz Wall stretched from the mouth of the Kelasur River to the city of Tkuarchal and further to the village of Lekukhona on the Ingur River. Where there were inaccessible mountain areas, the wall was not erected.

We approached the wall in the village of Kashtak, not far from where the Kelasur River flows into the sea. At this point, the wall from the highway rises up a steep slope, surrounded by thickets of bushes and bamboo. It is very low and very damaged.

At the top, a residential building now stands on the foundations of the wall and watchtower.

Here is a summary of what we managed to see in Abkhazia during the week.

Around the same time, my friends were traveling around Abkhazia by car. If we had an emphasis on historical monuments, they also paid attention to natural objects. So, they really liked the Akarmara waterfalls (not far from the city of Tkuarchal). One of these waterfalls is the Giant – 100 m high (see on the map). They also visited a trout farm, also located in a very beautiful place. They fried the caught fish.

They stayed for three nights in the village of Kyndyg and went to the Kyndyg springs. A visit to the thermal pools cost 200 rubles, there was no time limit. Hotel in Kyndyg

So, as I wrote at the beginning, a week-long itinerary around Abkhazia can be compiled without difficulty, there are a lot of interesting places, and you can’t cover everything in one trip.

New Athos Monastery

Located near Mount New Athos, the New Athos Monastery is a temple complex of amazing grandeur and beauty. The golden domes are visible from afar, and the opportunity to touch the shrines attracts pilgrims from different parts of the world. The monastery is an important part of the culture, history, architectural and religious heritage of the region. It is located in the small village of New Athos deep in the mountains. The complex was founded by the Greeks in 1874, on the site where the relics of one of the apostles of Christ, Simon the Canonite, are buried. The remains of the saint were buried in the ground near the cave in which he spent his days praying. Tsar Alexander III allocated funds for the construction of the complex, and he also presented the monastery with musical chimes that decorate the monastery to this day. The complex includes 6 temples, and for its construction part of the mountain was removed, removing thousands of tons of rock. The site on which the monastery was built rises 75 meters above sea level, and the monks of the Panteleimon monastery helped build the road to it. In 1878, even before construction was completed, the monastery was attacked and robbed, but two years later restoration work began. The consecration took place in the second autumn month of 1900. Before the revolution, the New Athos shrine was a key spiritual center. In Soviet times, the monastery housed a warehouse, a museum, and a military hospital.

Religious reconstruction began in 1994. The most active restoration was required for the Church of St. Panteleimon. Now the monastery holds services, receives pilgrims, and welcomes curious tourists. Anyone can touch the shrines, offer prayers for family and friends, and enjoy the good atmosphere of forgiveness and absolute gratitude.

The monastery includes churches:

• Martyr Hieron;
• Andrew the First-Called;
• Ascension of the Lord;
• Icons of the Mother of God;
• Reverend Fathers of Athos;
• Panteleimon Cathedral.

The monastery was built in the neo-Byzantine style and is open to guests all year round, but the most convenient time to visit is the summer season. To get inside, women need to wear a long skirt and cover their shoulders and head. Men are required to remove their hats, cover their shoulders, and wear long pants. Guests of Abkhazia staying in New Athos will find excursions to the monastery and other attractions of the region here:.

Geg waterfall

Once in Abkhazia, it is worth going on an excursion to the Gegsky Waterfall - one of the main natural attractions of the region. Local residents call it Gega or Circassian, sometimes Zou. It is majestic and unusual, so every year thousands of connoisseurs of natural beauty come to admire the reservoir. During the peak tourist season, the area near the waterfall is crowded, as guests often come in excursion groups. If you want to admire the attraction alone, it is better to go outside the period from July to September.

It cannot be said that you were able to fully see Abkhazia if you did not visit the Gegsky Waterfall. It is located on the edge of the reserve at Ritsa, near the Arabica Mountains, along the bed of the Gega River, which flows into Yupsara. The Gega begins in the Gagra ridge and flows south along ledges and stone cascades. The height of the waterfall reaches 70 meters. The stormy river first flows underground, through the Cherkesskaya karst cave, and, as if from a wound, it erupts through a crevice onto the rocks, crashing with a roar on the stones below. The waters are cold even in summer, crystal clear and make a lasting impression.

You can visit the waterfall at any time of the year without snow. The waters do not freeze even in January, although the flow volume is reduced. Guides recommend choosing a sunny, warm day for your trip, because the spray, breaking on the rocks, sparkles in the rays, shimmers with a rainbow, sparkles and plays. A dense curtain of water is refreshing even in the most intense heat. The morning effect of a shining rainbow is especially beautiful.

The Geg waterfall is a must-see point in Abkhazia, also because it is located at an altitude of 530 m above sea level. It is always cool here; a light snow cover sometimes remains until summer, making a strong impression on guests who come to relax at the seaside resort. Around the waterfall there are magnificent alpine views, slopes overgrown with lush greenery, gorgeous panoramas and a seething mountain river deep in the gorge. The mountain road is laid almost along the edge of the cliff, so even the path to the waterfall itself is perceived as an extreme adventure.

The Gegsky Waterfall, included in the list of the best places in Abkhazia, has more than once been a location for filming. Sherlock Holmes fought with Moriarty here, and scenes from the films “Sportloto-82” and “Rikki-Tikki-Tavi” were filmed here.

For those who like comfortable and safe trips, visiting the waterfall as part of a group is recommended. Since transport is not allowed within the reserve, you will have to walk several kilometers directly to the attraction. Walking as part of a tourist group guarantees a vivid impression without the risk of going astray. For travelers living in Gagra and Pitsunda, there are excursion programs starting right at the resort. Read more about them here:.

The best beaches of Abkhazia

Swimming begins in May and ends in October. In theory, the beaches are free, but on some you need to pay a small fee for a sunbed or canopy.

1. The beach in Pitsunda
   is the perfect combination of crystal clear water and a pine grove where you can wait out the heat. There are almost never strong currents or waves here. The beach, like almost everywhere else in Abkhazia, is pebble, but if you walk a little further, you will find a mix of sand and pebbles.
2. The beach in Gagra
   - water attractions and restaurants are plentiful here, but there are also a lot of tourists due to the well-developed service. You can find a more private place if you walk a little further away from crowds, but you still won’t feel like savages.
3. Mussera beach
   is one of the wildest beaches, without the fuss and crowds of tourists. Located in the protected area of ​​the Pitsundo-Myussersky Nature Reserve. A small cozy beach, hidden in dense vegetation and rocks overlooking Gorbachev’s dacha. The mountains here come close to the shore, and one of the riches of this place can be seen under your feet, because there is sand. But there is no special infrastructure here. If you get tired of roasting in the sun, you can look at what dachas the leaders of the USSR vacationed at: Stalin and the already mentioned Gorbachev.
4. Gold Coast Beach
   is another beach that only a few people come to in search of a calm atmosphere without any frills. The sand and pebble beach is located 20 km from the city of Gudauta. It is very wide, and there are several good cafes next to it.
5. Mocha Beach in Sukhum
   is one of the sandiest beaches in Abkhazia, and this is a rarity. With a fairly developed infrastructure: cafe, restaurant, tour desk, volleyball court, locker room, toilet and most importantly - wi-fi. You can also ride here, for example, on a banana boat. At the entrance you need to pay about 100 rubles for a sunbed with a canopy.

Anakopia fortress

Built on the top of the Iveron Mountain, at an altitude of 350 m above sea level, the Anakopia fortress was erected in the 4-5 centuries AD and has been well preserved to this day. In Greek the name means “harsh rocky”, and in Abkhazian “rugged”. The Greeks often call the area the Trachea of ​​Anakopia. The fortress was built as a fortification for protection from the enemy. In the past, it was possible to get inside only through the central gate in the south, and from the height of the observation tower one could see all the surroundings right up to the sea horizon. It was most significant in the 8th century, when it became the central point of the region. Near the fortress they built the temple of Theodore Tyrone, which has not survived to our time - only the chapel has survived.

Legends say that on the territory there is a well full of living water. It is believed that it is fed by an inexhaustible spring, and every drop of water has incredible healing powers.

At the beginning of the current millennium, the fortress was completely restored, the watchtower was reconstructed, an observation deck was built, and the slopes of the mountain were put in order. You can visit the Anakopia fortress as part of an individual tour:

Sights of Sukhum

During your vacation in Sukhum, you can manage to collect a selection of a wide variety of photos of the sights of Abkhazia: the Botanical Garden, where a 250-year-old linden tree and more than five thousand species of plants grow; Freedom Square - a kind of sad monument to the past war; A monkey nursery on the mountainside, home to about 300 monkeys.

You can walk in the city all day long to see as many sights of Sukhum as possible: walk along Mira Avenue - the central street of the city, on which several architectural monuments are located; leisurely explore the embankments of Mahadzhars and Diskurovs - for example, follow from the arboretum past the Eucalyptus Park, the Ritsinsky pier and sea station, the Sukhumi fortress, the city beach to the commercial port.

It’s worth paying attention to the ancient fortress of Sukhum, or rather its remains. The first protective structure near the sea was created in the 1st–2nd centuries BC, then the wall was completed more than once and was almost completely destroyed; its fragments can be seen in a small area between Academician Sakharov Street and Voronova Street.

It will be interesting to see the temples of Sukhum, belonging to different religious communities. To get started, just walk along Abazinskaya Street, where there is a Catholic Church, a Lutheran Church and a Cathedral.

You can learn more about the history of the country and the nature of the region at the Abkhaz State Museum and Art Gallery, where the best works of Abkhaz artists are exhibited.

In the vicinity of Sukhum, the remains of castles and the Kelasur wall, the Kamansky monastery, picturesque green mountains with ancient buildings, and natural parks have been preserved.

Waterfall Maiden's Tears

Maiden's tears on the banks of the Bzybi are on the way from Gagra to Ritsa. The waterfall is located along the road and is available for viewing by everyone. The water flows from a high-mountain meadow, passing purifying limestones along the way, so it is crystal clear and transparent. The landscape is especially beautiful in sunny weather, when every drop sparkles in the light. If possible, this region is visited in early spring, when the snow is just beginning to melt and the water looks like thin crystal strings, and the waterfall itself looks like a musical instrument.

The name reflects the visual associations: Maiden's tears look like rocks are crying. The waters flow quietly along the ivy-covered and moss-covered slopes. They tell a legend about the incredible love of a girl for a hero. The couple could not be together and the heartbroken lover turned into eternally crying rocks. Abkhazians tell about the couple Adgur and Amra – a mountain spirit and a shepherd’s daughter. A jealous witch separated the lovers, killed the girl, and Adgur could not save the beauty from the dark spell.

Gorges

Kodori Gorge

Coordinates: 42.972255, 41.496105 Address: Kodori Gorge, Sukhumi, Abkhazia How to get there: from Sukhumi you need to take a bus, minibus or train towards Dranda (approximately 30-40 minutes). Then you can use two options: in the village of Machara, change to any transport that follows the Machara River through the village of Merkheuli to Tsebelda and further, or drive further than Dranda and take local buses to Takhi. Next begins the walking route

The Kodori Gorge is a river valley 100 km long. Many consider the valley the most picturesque and interesting place in the Caucasus. The gorge is located at the foot of the southern slopes of the Caucasus Range, at the source of the Kodor River.

In addition to its extraordinary natural beauty, the gorge is distinguished by its very large elevation difference from 1000 to 4000 meters.

On numerous tourist routes there are narrow tunnels, wide green valleys, small ancient settlements, dolmens, mountain lakes, the banks of wild rivers, as well as picturesque waterfalls.

It is worth noting that the valley is located in a protected area, which requires issuing a pass. For tourists traveling with excursion groups, this issue is dealt with by the organizers. If you are traveling on your own, you can purchase a permit on the spot.

Aatsyn Gorge

Coordinates: 43.135210, 40.744195 Address: Aatsyn Gorge, Gudauta, Abkhazia How to get there: from Gudauta you need to get to the parking lot on the Aapsta River. Next 2-3 km on foot. The easiest way to visit the gorge is with a tour group

Another incredibly picturesque gorge of Abkhazia, Aatsinskoye is located not far from Gudauta. The Aapsta mountain river between steep cliffs with incredibly clear and transparent blue water leads to the Aatsin waterfalls. The water in the river barely reaches 10 degrees Celsius. The route through the gorge passes through boxwood groves, and tourists are also offered a boat ride.

Yupshar Canyon

Yupshar Canyon is a natural landmark that appeared centuries ago during an earthquake. The Yupshara flows along the bottom of the canyon. Over the centuries, the river coming out of Ritsa eroded the crack, and this is how the modern Stone Bag appeared. The peculiarity of Yupshara is its transparent, clean blue water. The canyon reaches 8 km in length, 400 m in width, and narrows upward, so the tops of the rocks are separated from each other by only tens of meters. Once at the bottom of the canyon, you can only see a narrow strip of sky. Almost no sunlight reaches the interior, so it is always cold and damp below, and the walls are overgrown with ivy and boxwood. The narrowest place is the Yupshar Gate, behind which the ascent to Ritsa begins.

Waterfall Men's tears

The waterfall is located near the Yupshar Gate and appears in local legends. They say that the beautiful Amra lived in these parts in the past, herded goats and sang with a charming voice. Her beloved was in the mountains and listened to Amra's songs every day. The mermaid, who was jealous of the girl, decided to destroy her, but the water spirits came to restore justice. Amru was saved, and the mermaid turned to stone. Her chosen one, hunting in the mountains, felt the arrival of trouble, and tears involuntarily flowed from his eyes, fell on the stones - and this is how a waterfall appeared.

The Man's Tears waterfall is high: a tourist located at the foot practically does not see the beginning of the sheer water flow. It is believed that a couple in love visiting Abkhazia must visit here so that the feelings last a lifetime. For luck, they tie colored ribbons, make wishes and be sure to climb onto the bridge to touch the icy waters.

What to bring from Abkhazia

• Suluguni is smoked and regular, but the second one spoils quite quickly, so be careful. In theory, the Russian side prohibits the import of home-made products (anything without factory packaging), but the juice is in these home-made cheeses. Our advice is to distribute the cheese into different parts of your bag or suitcase.
• Dried fruits, especially dried peaches and persimmons
• Adzhindzhukh (Abkhazian churchkhela)
• Adjika (a small jar will last a very long time)
• Chacha is for all lovers of the fiery drink (you can take out no more than 3 liters per person for free). There is no particular point in buying wine, since in Russia there is a huge selection.

Milk Falls

Another enchanting mountain Abkhaz waterfall is Molochny. It is located in the Ritsa National Park near the village of Auadhara, formed by the waters of a glacial mountain river that begins in Atsetuk and flows rapidly down. A multi-cascade powerful waterfall falls from a great height, giving the impression that water is pouring from the sky. As they fall, the jets become saturated with air, causing them to turn white, reminiscent of fresh milk. You can visit the waterfall during one of the excursions starting in Gagra or at Russian and Georgian resorts. Read more about them here:.

Where to live?

Everything can be found on Booking or Airbnb: hotels, apartments, villas, hostels. Finding an apartment or room on site is a thing of the past. Prices in season for one night range from 500 rubles for a double room to 18,000 for a villa for 9 people. Checked good hotels:

• Gagra: Hotel “Aquamarine Family Club” - Abazgaa st., 58
• Pitsunda: Pitsunda Cat - Sadovaya st., 16
• New Athos: Afon Resort Hotel - Lakoba st., 14 B
• Sukhum: Boutique Hotel “Atrium-Victoria” - Aiaaira st., 4

Ghost Town of Akarmara

In the past, Akarmara was a mining village. It appeared in 1938, and in 1942 it became part of Tkvarcheli. During the war, German prisoners of war were sent here for forced labor, so the coal center differs from ordinary Soviet mining towns. Over time, Akarmara became an elite habitat, queues for apartments here lasted for years, houses with high floors stood along wide avenues, and several alleys were built for walking. Although there were few residents in Akarmara, all important infrastructure facilities operated here, and new industrial zones were built.

After the collapse of the USSR, military operations began on the territory of Abkhazia and the area to which Akarmara belongs was under siege for 413 days. The city was shelled with heavy artillery, and local residents were starving, suffering from epidemics, and trying to escape the war. Industrial facilities were irrevocably damaged, bombs destroyed roads. In 2008, the former Tkvarcheli became a hero city, but no funds were found for restoration. In 2018, only 5 families lived in Akarmara without any outside help. The buildings are boarded up, old cars rust in the courtyards, everything is overgrown with subtropical plants. There are several waterfalls near the ghost town. It is unlikely that you will be able to find them on your own, but the residents of Tkvarcheli are happy to offer the services of guides.

The situation with coronavirus in Abkhazia

The border with Abkhazia was opened on August 1, 2022.

According to the press service of the Sochi customs, in the first two days of the opening of the border, more than 30 thousand people crossed it in both directions. A video also appeared on the Internet in which hundreds of people stood in queues at the automobile checkpoint in Psou in the middle of the night.

The media write that at the border, travelers are not required to have a certificate of absence of coronavirus infection, and wearing masks in public places is recommended.

We've warned you.

Stalin's dacha on Lake Ritsa

State Dacha No. 5 is a dacha built in 1947 for Joseph Stalin on the banks of the Ritsa. Back in 1937, a hunting lodge was built here for the party elite, and in 1946 they decided to build a dacha for the head of the nation. The main house was decorated with valuable wood, heat and water supply systems, a refrigerator and electric boilers. A huge floating veranda was installed on the lake, and the surrounding area was turned into a park, with flower beds and fountains. Work on the construction of the dacha and the road to it was completed in the fall of 1949, and the route itself cost the budget 16.5 million rubles.

Stalin's dacha has remained virtually unchanged - a green house surrounded by ship's pines, furnished by the architect Burov. To supply electricity, a hydroelectric power station was built near the dacha, and security was provided by dozens of officers who were on duty around the perimeter around the clock. During Stalin’s personal stay at the dacha, the number of guards increased several dozen times. However, the owner visited the house only 5 times. After his death, Khrushchev and Brezhnev rested here.

The inside of the mansion is decorated with expensive wood and furniture designed to suit Stalin's height. Thick crystal is used for the windows to protect from heat, and the space is designed so that it is always semi-dark inside. For bathing there is a thermal bath, which is filled with sea water.

The dacha is now open to the public. Tourists can use the services of a guide to learn more about the character, tastes, habits of the former owner, and feel like they are in his skin. You can even spend the night in the Secretary General's bed if you first obtain official permission and pay the cost of accommodation.

White Rocks

After 3.5 km we had our next stop. We stopped on the side of the road and began to descend along a steep path to the sea.

Crossed the railroad tracks

and found ourselves in a wonderful place. It's called White Rocks. The monotonous pebble shore here is pierced by outcrops of white rocks. The rocks are low and gentle. Unusually beautiful color of water.

In ancient times, the White Cliffs served as a landmark for ancient Greek sailors exploring the shores of the Black Sea. According to one version, it was here that the Argonauts landed, arriving in Colchis for the Golden Fleece.

Almost immediately beyond the White Rocks, the Kholodnaya River , on which one of Stalin’s dachas . There are five Stalin’s dachas in Abkhazia: on the Cold River, in the Myussersky Nature Reserve, on Lake Ritsa, behind the New Athos Monastery and in Sukhum. All of them were built in the most picturesque places.

We did not go to the dacha, but went to Gagra.

Lake Mzy

Mzy (Mzym) is a mountain natural attraction that attracts not only with its beauty, but also with the route to it. The height of Mza above sea level is 2 kilometers. The lake is small, reaching a depth of 40 meters, filled with water from melted glaciers. It’s not worth swimming in Mzyma - the water rarely warms up above 4 degrees, and there is snow all around even in July. The lake is located in the Ritsinsky Park and is considered one of the most easily accessible - you can walk here along a path or drive along the road. The route is unpopular, so there are almost no tourists near Mza. To avoid getting lost and learn a lot of interesting things about the local region, use the services of a guide. You can rent horses to take you to the shores, creating an even more amazing experience along the way.

Route around Abkhazia

Our route around Abkhazia included mainly historical monuments, but since they were all located in very beautiful places, we can say that in each case it was a combination of natural and man-made beauties. The concentration of attractions in Abkhazia is such that there are enough of them for more than one trip. And when planning a route, you will have to choose every time what to see this time and what to leave for later.

We went to Abkhazia for the May holidays. May is a great time for sightseeing. It was not hot and not crowded. One day was rainy, the rest were sunny.

The border was crossed on May 2. We went through surprisingly quickly, there was no queue.

In my story, I did not adhere to chronology, I simply consistently described the sights of Abkhazia that we encountered on our way as we moved from the border with Russia deep into Abkhazia.

Beslet Bridge

The Beslet Bridge over the Basla River was built in a quiet gorge more than eight centuries ago. The ancient architectural monument has been preserved in impeccable condition. The bridge is a stone arch reaching a length of 13 meters and composed of limestone slabs. Previously, it was valued by the military and strategists, since it was the only way to get into mountainous areas. There were defensive towers next to the bridge; now only ruins remain of them.

They say that earlier bloodthirsty strangers came to the territory of the region, destroying children and women, burning villages to the ground. It seemed impossible to defeat them, but a few brave men came up with a plan: build a bridge and attack the enemy from the rear. There was nothing for construction, just sand and stones. And then each resident brought an egg - from eggs and sand they made a solution that glued the stone blocks together. The Abkhaz crossed the bridge, attacked the enemy from behind and liberated their ancestral lands.

The second name of the attraction is the Bridge of Queen Tamara, the ruler under whom Georgia experienced its golden age.

Sela

Kamany village

Coordinates: 43.096017, 40.997190 Address: Sukhumi district (15 km from the city of Sukhum <How to get there: from the Monkey Nursery in Sukhumi, take the road to the mountains through the village of Yashtukha, then through the abandoned village of Guma. From the village of Guma you need to proceed to the bridge over the river Gumista, after the bridge turn left to the village of Kamany.

The village of Kamany is one of the main spiritual attractions in Abkhazia. It is believed that it was here that the Holy Martyr Basilisk died and was buried in 308.

The road to the village of Kamany passes between the Byrtskha and Yashtukha mountains, where the site of a primitive man was found. On the way, it is also worth seeing the oldest Mikhailovskoye cemetery and the active Church of the Transfiguration.

In the village of Kamany itself there is a chapel of the Christian martyr St. Basilisk.

If you turn from the chapel onto a country road, you can get to the Spring of St. Basilisk. According to legend, it was at this place that the Saint’s head was cut off. The water in the source is considered healing.

If you walk a little further along the shore of western Gumista, you can see the ruins of the Basilisk-Chrysostom monastery, built in 1898. A little further is the Temple of John Chrysostom, built in 1991 on the ruins of an 11th century temple.

Village of Lykhny

Coordinates: 43.140229, 40.615538 Address: Gudauta district (5 km northwest of Gudauta) How to get there: by minibus (10-20 min) - walk from the railway station to the final transport stop (in front of the Adzlagara river), take a minibus going to the village. Lykhny; by taxi (7-10 min) – from the railway station directly along the highway

Lykhny is the oldest village in Abkhazia; in the Middle Ages it was the capital of the state.

The main attractions of the village of Lykhny are described in our article about Gudauta.

Chernigovka village

Coordinates: 43°0'51″N, 41°9'51″E Address: Sukhumi district, Chernigovka village How to get there: from Sukhum you need to get to the village of Gulrypsh. At the traffic police post, turn left and drive to the village of Markhaul. Then drive 8 km following the signs to the village of Chernigovka

The village of Chernigovka is a small settlement located in the mountains 25 km from Sukhum. This place, unique in its natural beauty, is primarily associated with a picturesque gorge, where you can walk along a mountain river, through forest paths and hanging bridges.

The Assir restaurant is located on the territory of the gorge. Visitors can dine in cozy gazebos located in the most unusual places at different levels of the gorge.

On the way to the Gorge, you can stop by the Merheulsky mineral spring, the water of which is considered healing. It was in the village of Merkheul that Lavrentiy Beria was born.

Castle of the Prince of Oldenburg in Gagra

The Prince's Palace is the Abkhazian analogue of Neuschwanstein, built above a cozy resort near the Black Sea. The castle, designed by a passionate admirer of art, a true philanthropist and founder of Gagra, was somewhat damaged during the war, but even now it impresses with its dimensions and architectural grandeur.

The castle was built in 1902 in the Art Nouveau style by the architect Lutseransky. It was assumed that the mansion would become a summer residence for the imperial descendant. A year after the completion of construction, the Primorsky Park was created in Gagra. As the Prince of Oldenburg wanted, Gagra became a resort, but the happiness did not last long. The war began, the prince was summoned to St. Petersburg, from where he left for Paris. With the beginning of Soviet power, the palace was turned into a sanatorium for the party elite.

During the Abkhaz-Georgian war, the palace was badly damaged; chips from bullets and shells are visible on its walls. The castle is a dominant feature of the landscape, its tiled roofs rise in the Joekwara gorge, standing out in contrast against the backdrop of lush vegetation. The interiors have hardly been preserved - only fragments of floors, fireplaces, windows, and here and there wall paintings remain. Restoration is planned, so the palace was handed over to a private philanthropist. Excursions with guides are available for tourists, telling the history of the region, the legends surrounding the castle, interesting and funny facts from the past and present. Read more about excursions in Gagra and the surrounding area here:.

What to take with you?

• The Russian ruble is in use. Be sure to take cash, because there will be no problems with it, but with a card it is possible. Don’t complicate your holiday by looking for ATMs, they are not on every corner, plus there is a commission. Although, as of March 2022, it has become easier to pay by bank transfer than several years ago, but mainly only in Sukhum.
• Power Bank. It will be needed as the flow of photos will be constant.
• A scarf or foam for picnics in the reserve or on the beach. You will definitely want to just stop and sit in some magical place along the way.

Bedia Cathedral

The Bedia Cathedral, built in 999 as an Orthodox center, is known far beyond the borders of Georgia. This temple is one of the most majestic among the surviving medieval ones. The cathedral was erected during the reign of Bagrat III, whose tomb is located on the territory of the complex. He himself chose the site for the temple, and later created the Bedia bishopric. When the construction was completed, he presented the cathedral with a golden chalice 12.5 cm high and 14 cm in diameter. Now the relic, which has lost its leg over many centuries, is kept in the Tbilisi Museum of Art. The temple is dedicated to the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God - the image is kept in the Moscow Kremlin Assumption Cathedral.

Previously, a stone palace and a complex of buildings adjoined the temple. Divine services in the cathedral have been held since the 17th century, but stopped with the seizure of land by the Ottomans. In the 18th century, the cathedral was restored, the facade was re-erected, and the dome was installed. In the 21st century, a new restoration was carried out, after which services began again in the cathedral. The first service was dedicated to Abkhazian soldiers.

Holy places

Ilor Church of St. George

Coordinates: 42.696138,41.499492 Address: Abkhazia, city of Ochamchir, village of Ilor How to get there: along the Sukhumi highway to the city of Ochamchir, then by local transport to the village of Ilor

The current Ilor Church, an example of Georgian architecture of the 11th century, was erected on the site of one of the seven main Abkhaz sanctuaries, Elir-nykha (“justice”). The patron saint of the temple is St. George the Victorious. The church attracts a huge number of believers from all over the world, since it is believed that it is in this place that a request to God will definitely become a reality.

The Temple contains myrrh-streaming icons, as well as particles of the relics of St. George the Victorious.

Mokva Cathedral

Coordinates: 42.834292, 41.505978 Address: Abkhazia, city of Ochamchir, village of Mokva How to get there: along the Sukhumi highway to the city of Ochamchir, then by local transport to the village of Mokva

The Mokva Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary was built in the 10th century by the Abkhazian king Leon III. Since ancient times, it was believed that the cathedral was richly decorated; the rare fresco painting of the walls was valued.

However, in the 12th century the cathedral was abandoned and restored only in the 50s of the 19th century. Later it was closed again, and only in 2002 services were resumed in the Cathedral.

The last prince of Abkhazia, Mikhail Shervashidze, his son, the poet George, as well as Abkhaz military leaders are buried on the territory of the Cathedral.

Rock Monastery

Coordinates: 43.241514, 40.498950 Address: Gudauta district, village. Othara How to get there: by car - until the turn at the beginning of the village. Barmysh, follow the sign (“Trout farm”), drive to your destination

The medieval monastery, located in the village of Othara, is a unique creation of man, since it is located right in a steep cliff. Until now, scientists cannot determine the exact date of construction of the Monastery. However, judging by the utensils found in the premises and cells, the Monastery dates back to the 12th century. It served as a refuge for the Abkhaz nobility.