Rostov the Great is a great idea for a day trip from Moscow, because Rostov is only 200 kilometers from the capital, and you can get there very easily by train. However, looking ahead, I will say that you should not delude yourself. Like all cities, Rostov the Great is a city of contrasts. Read more in my review of an independent trip to Rostov the Great (Yaroslavl).
Rostov the Great. Kremlin
My friends invited me to Rostov the Great, and without thinking twice I agreed. We booked train tickets and hotel in advance; after all, Rostov is a popular city. Not many people know that there are quite a lot of attractions in Rostov; usually tourists look at the Kremlin and miss a lot of interesting things. We are for leisurely independent travel, so to speak, for “total immersion” in the atmosphere. This note will not contain historical information; those who are interested in history can read in detail the historical information about Rostov the Great here.
To Rostov Veliky by train
Getting to Rostov on your own is very easy - in the evening a high-speed train departs from the Yaroslavsky station, which takes a little less than three hours to Rostov. The seats on the train are soft, comfortable, and there are power outlets. There are quite a lot of hotels in Rostov and almost all of them are located in restored merchant houses. This is exactly where we decided to stay. Our hotel was called the Frog Princess, and on the ground floor there is a museum of the same name, which children like. So, at the end of the working day on Friday, we loaded onto the train and set off on a mini-trip. I’ll say right away that I was poorly prepared for the trip; somehow I didn’t have time. Therefore, I almost completely trusted my friends who had at least read something about Rostov the Great. The train arrived in Rostov around 21. Having looked at the map that the station was not so far from our hotel, we decided to go on foot using the navigator. It should be noted that this was not the best decision, because the streets in Rostov are poorly lit in the evening, the roads are broken, and there are virtually no sidewalks. Add to this spring puddles and mud. In general, in about 30 minutes we finally reached Moskovskaya Street and our hotel.
Where to go with children
A snow-white fortress with towers, the Frog Princess, Alyosha Popovich, folk crafts in museum master classes - Rostov the Great takes travelers with children into the world of fairy tales.
The Frog Princess Museum , like many in this city, occupies a merchant's mansion. The plot of the famous fairy tale could well have happened on Rostov soil, because for the indigenous peoples the frog was sacred. In addition to meeting 5,000 frogs of all colors and sizes, young guests will enjoy an interactive game-journey through the fairy tale “The Frog Princess,” where everyone can play the role of a prince or an unusual princess.
Museum “The Frog Princess” Photo: © Maria Penina
At the Compound, Alyosha Popovich and Marya the Mistress will be introduced to the life of the legendary hero, invited to take part in funny competitions and treated to heroic dishes. At master classes at the museum complex, those interested will be taught the secrets of ancient monograms or the patterns of the Rostov whistle.
The Rostov Compound Museum will reveal the history of the past in an accessible and fascinating form . Visitors will learn about the secrets of Lake Nero, ancient rituals, and traditions of celebrating name days. Schoolchildren will be told why the school year began in winter and how the modern ABC differs from the ancient Primer. For the winter holidays, the museum always organizes themed entertainment programs.
Interactive for young tourists Photo: © Svetlana-Bol-Shakova
A couple more places where both children and adults will not get bored, where leisure and lunch are successfully combined.
“Lukova Sloboda” is a cafe-museum dedicated to the history of onions. Don’t worry that the cafe’s menu won’t be to your taste: in addition to onion dishes, there are plenty of other dishes.
“Rostov gingerbread ” is a museum of Rostov gingerbread, a family production that existed in the city at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. Combining an immersion in history, everyone will be treated to delicious gingerbread and invited to take part in their preparation. On New Year's and Christmas dates, Rostov gingerbread prepares themed excursions and performances for guests.
Showcase of the Alyosha Popovich cafe in Rostov Photo: © Maria Penina
If you continue your journey towards Yaroslavl or, conversely, come from its side, do not miss the Zabava active and family recreation park . It is located at km 244 of the M-8 highway and offers plenty of activities for the whole family in both summer and winter. In the latter case, many attractions are available: an inflatable wheel, sumoball, trampolines, bull rodeo and others, there are places for cheesecake riding, skiing and ice skating. For those who want to experience vivid emotions, there are rope courses and bungee jumping. Shooting range and paintball - for an exciting fight. There is plenty of entertainment here not only on ordinary days: the annual Maslenitsa festivities will be not only fun, but also delicious.
Looking for dinner
After leaving our things in the room, we went somewhere to eat, because after a working day no one ate. The first place we went to was the Ivan Tsarevich cafe, which is located next to the hotel. However, the restaurant was closed for special services, so we had to look for another place. Then we set off towards the Rostov Kremlin, hoping that at least something would be working in the very center (it was only 22-00). On the way, we stopped at a couple more establishments and were turned away everywhere - the locals really didn’t want to work. Opposite the Kremlin we saw a bright sign for the Rus cafe. We were so glad that the cafe was open!!! The interior is simple: the walls are painted with scenes from Russian fairy tales, the furniture is simple. But at that time it didn’t matter to us, since they fed us here! The food was pretty decent and simple. We ate soup and salad each, leaving not much money for everything. Overall the cafe is ok, you won't leave hungry.
After dinner we went to the hotel to save up our strength for the next day. I already wrote about the Frog Princess hotel in a separate article. But I repeat once again - if you are sensitive to noise, then this hotel is not for you. For example, this turned into a sleepless night for me. Well, let's not talk about the bad - the hotel is quite new, it has recent renovations and good furniture. Maybe I was unlucky with the number. But after night there always comes morning, and time for breakfast.
Princess Frog
The Frog Princess does not have its own restaurant, so for breakfast we were directed to the Ivan Tsarevich restaurant, the same one that was closed the day before for special service. Naturally, there was no buffet here; we were fed a fairly good and hearty breakfast from the menu. In the morning we were alone here, so I took pictures of the entire fabulous interior of this establishment.
Cafe Ivan-Tsarevich
Sights of Rostov Veliky: route for one day
At breakfast, we discussed our plan for the day: we planned to start the walk from the Rostov Merchants Museum, then walk to the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery, walk to the Rostov enamel factory. After visiting the factory, we planned a visit to the exhibitions of the Rostov Kremlin and a walk along Lake Nero. For the evening we also planned dinner and departure by train to Moscow. Thus, in a day we had to explore all the main attractions of Rostov.
Rostov Veliky
Rostov Veliky
What to try
If you’re going to Rostov to get a touch of the origins of Rus', then, of course, it’s worth rediscovering Russian cuisine. Forget about steakhouses, pizzerias, sushi and grill bars, it's time to spend your money and stomach space on hearty and indulgent food from fairy tales.
Particularly noteworthy are the hand-made dumplings stuffed with fish, pike, for example, caught in the glorious Lake Nero. Continuing the fish theme, we cannot lose sight of the pike perch. It is recommended to try it in at least two guises - in the form of Rostov fish soup and a dish with a wonderful and meaningless name to the uninitiated, “telelnoe”. We advise you not to search the Internet for recipes and pictures with “telny”, but to come to Rostov and order a portion. This way the impressions from your acquaintance will be fresher and brighter.
The best way to become friends with Rostov fish soup is during the traditional festival of the same name. The “Great Rostov Ear” event takes place in May, being one of the important parts of City Day.
Local pickles are also praised, especially mushrooms collected from the surrounding forests. Some cafes even offer mushroom excursions with experienced guides. And what will help you quench your thirst in the ancient city is not fashionable and harmful foreign fizzy drinks, but native kvass, fruit drinks, sbitn and mead.
Museum of Rostov Merchants
No sooner said than done - the clock had not even struck 10 am, and we were already on the threshold of the Rostov Merchants Museum on Moskovskaya Street. We bought tickets and a small guide to the halls. The museum is located in the former estate of the Kekins, to whom most of the exhibition is dedicated. The museum has restored the furnishings of a merchant's house. Here you can see various interesting things that belonged to them: for example, a women's kokoshnik from the 18th century, family silver. The museum is very educational and cozy. I highly recommend visiting it. At the end of the day, we even left positive reviews in the corresponding book.
Museum of Rostov Merchants
Museum of Rostov Merchants
After the museum of Rostov merchants, we continued our journey along Moskovskaya Street, looking at the architecture along the way. I must say that even in the center of Rostov we noticed a large number of houses after fires. It’s a shame, because our history is burning before our eyes.
Rostov Veliky
Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery
The next object of our trip was the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery. By 11:30 a.m. there was already a brisk trade in souvenirs and tourist buses were parked nearby.
On the way to the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery
Despite the fact that the monastery is active, right at the entrance it was possible to purchase a tour of the monastery, which we took advantage of. It should be noted that we were incredibly lucky with the guide. I haven't heard such an interesting and exciting story for a long time!
Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery
I recommend that you take a tour of the monastery, because this will allow you to see things that you would not be able to see for yourself without a guide. So our small group was allowed to go down to the underground temple, which is closed to everyone. Then we climbed a narrow staircase to the very dome of one of the cathedrals. Of course, after the excursion we visited the observation deck on the territory of the monastery and admired Lake Nero. Overall, we really enjoyed the excursion!
You can read more about the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery here.
Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery
Despite the seemingly well-kept appearance of the monastery, if you look inside you will be horrified by the condition. For example, this is what the staircase to the observation deck looks like.
Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery
Neighborhood
Spaso-Yakovlevsky Dimitriev Monastery
From the lake you can see the ancient Spaso-Yakovlevsky Dimitriev monastery, founded in the 14th century. Most of the surviving buildings were built later, and their architecture is significantly different from the Kremlin - it is more classical and baroque style. The monastery's cathedrals will also be of interest for their ancient frescoes.
Church of St. John the Evangelist on Ishna
Another important attraction is the Church of St. John the Theologian, which is located in the vicinity of Rostov in the Bogoslov area. It was built in 1687 and is a unique wooden monument preserved from that time. You can see many carved elements in the temple. Inside there is a copy of the Royal Doors from 1562.
village of Bogoslov
Working hours: 10:00-17:00
Entrance: 80 rub.
Rostov enamel
But as they say, that’s not all. After visiting the holy place, we decided to go to a store at the Rostov enamel factory, where they sell silver items with enamel inserts. Enamel is a special type of work with enamel. This type of fishing has been preserved in Rostov from ancient times to this day.
I had to look a little for the factory store, but the surest way to find it is to ask the locals. Any passerby will tell you, because everyone in Rostov knows this factory. That’s where my friend and I hung out for a long time. Many will think that Rostov enamel products are old-fashioned and no one wears them. However, we were pleasantly surprised by the modern design of the jewelry. Well done factory designers!
More about the factory store
Factory of Rostov Finifti
After an hour of shopping, we decided to go to the Kremlin, because the Kremlin is the pearl of Rostov.
What to bring
Rostov was lucky with souvenirs; the rich history of the city and the crafts of its residents allowed us to avoid banal plates and magnets. The main pride is Rostov enamel. Colored enamel miniatures on jewelry, icons, and boxes are incredibly popular. Beware of fakes! More and more often, travelers complain about outright “stampings” from China; they have nothing to do with the handmade work of Rostov craftsmen. Real enamel is usually marked with the mark of production - there are 5 workshops and factories working with it in the city; it is better to buy it in branded shops at museums and enterprises or in serious souvenir shops.
The second reason to clear some space on the souvenir shelf is black-polished ceramics. The outskirts of Rostov are rich in deposits of ceramic clay, from which local craftsmen became adept at making dishes and crafts in the 19th century, surprisingly reminiscent of cast iron in appearance. One of the leading productions is Shabalov’s workshop. All ceramics are made by hand, each product is a small work of art.
As for edible souvenirs: in past centuries Rostov was famous for its gingerbreads, but this art was lost. You will come across printed sweet souvenirs made locally - buy and try. If you like it, buy more, give it to friends and praise it in your reports. Look, with such little effort the former greatness of Rostov gingerbread makers will be revived.
Rostov - a city of contrasts
I would like to say a few words about the fact that you should not perceive Rostov as a picture city. Turning off the main street you can see the squalor and poor condition of the sidewalks and roads.
For example, such an estate was located directly opposite our hotel, on Moskovskaya Street.
Rostov Veliky
But this picture is the norm for the city: an old wooden house with boarded up windows.
Rostov Veliky
I think that in a couple of years there will be no wooden houses left in Rostov. You can see this picture everywhere. This is not Suzdal; in Rostov no one follows a unified style in the center. It's a pity.
Rostov Veliky
This is what the roads look like in Rostov the Great.
Rostov Veliky
Rostov Kremlin
However, the path from the enamel factory to the Kremlin is not long, and the roads in Rostov are as broken as after the war. Well, nothing, we were prepared and equipped accordingly. Along the way, we didn’t stop taking pictures. In Rostov you can find wonderful examples of wooden modernism. So, here it is - the handsome Rostov Kremlin! At the entrance to the Kremlin, we purchased a single ticket to visit all exhibitions (its cost is 400 rubles). This was the right decision, because many exhibitions are held simultaneously on the territory of the Kremlin, and tickets are sold only at the entrance to the Kremlin. It took us about 4 hours to visit all the exhibitions in the Kremlin!
Rostov Kremlin
On the territory of the Rostov Kremlin
There's a lot to see here: there are objects from archaeological excavations, an exhibition of church values, and icons.
In the Rostov Kremlin
A stunning exhibition of church utensils in the Church of Hodegetria. By the way, be sure to visit it, this church has a simply stunning interior.
Church of Hodegetria
On the territory of the Rostov Kremlin, you cannot miss the observation deck, which offers unforgettable views of the Kremlin and Lake Nero.
Stairs to the observation deck
The observation deck itself can barely fit 10 people.
Observation deck
Observation deck
Observation deck
After viewing the exhibitions, we went out to the Metropolitan Garden and looked into the Garden House, where there is a cozy cafe! Here you can also buy delicious honey gingerbread, which we took with us to Moscow.
In the garden house
After visiting the Kremlin's exhibitions, we could not pass by the Assumption Cathedral - the oldest building in Rostov the Great. The inside of the cathedral is in very poor condition, everything is scaffolded. But even in this state, the cathedral makes an indelible impression!
Assumption Cathedral
Inside the Assumption Cathedral
Feeling the power of the ancient building, we went out into the street... and heard a marvelous, miraculous, miraculous thing - the Rostov bells. It was so beautiful that I can't put it into words. All the people who were near the cathedral froze in silence, enjoying the beautiful sounds. The walls of the Rostov Kremlin create excellent acoustics for these unearthly sounds. By the way, for a fee you can go up to the bell tower and examine the huge bells.
Belfry
Rostov ramparts
After visiting the Rostov Kremlin, we went for a short walk along the Rostov ramparts, which are located around the Kremlin. If you have time, do not deny yourself the pleasure of once again admiring the Kremlin from the outside. It seems that time has stopped here and the views that open from the shafts have not changed for the last 150 years!
Ramparts
Ramparts
Ramparts
Lake Nero
So, unnoticed along the ramparts, we reached Lake Nero itself. Lake Nero is another attraction of Rostov. They say that the fairy-tale frog princess, who received an arrow of happiness from Ivan Tsarevich, lived here. In summer, you can take a boat ride on Lake Nero and photograph the Rostov Kremlin from the water. But at the beginning of May, when we were in Rostov, we only saw boats on the pier.
On the shore of Lake Nero
On the shore of Lake Nero
There is also a lot of interesting things to do on the coastal street. For example, the private art gallery Russian Vertograd.
On the shore of Lake Nero
After breathing in the lake air, walking along the shore and photographing the view of the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery, we headed back to the center along the same route.
Results of the trip
Having driven about 200 more kilometers on the way home, startled by stones flying into the windshield, we find ourselves stuck in the usual holiday traffic jams. However, we were not too upset - the positive emotions we received from the trip were still strong. Two gas stations and almost 600 kilometers traveled fully justify the new impressions of the Russian province.
We touched history and were sincerely happy for small towns where local residents are happy to share their good mood with guests. I wanted to come here again, but already at a time when the Volga will not be so cold, and historical places will begin to be buried in greenery. Then we can walk along the quiet provincial streets and get a completely different impression.
Author: Leonid Dubina
