Staraya Russa - a city that ranks third in size in the Novgorod region. It was founded in 1167 and is one of the oldest cities in Russia. In the Middle Ages, this place was the main center of salt production in North-Western Rus', and since 1828 it became a popular balneological and mud resort.
Staraya Russa began to lose its popularity after World War II, as the railway connecting it directly with Novgorod was destroyed. Today, the tourism sector in this city, unfortunately, is developing very poorly.
Staraya Russa, city attractions: Dostoevsky Museum
On the bank of the small river Pererytitsa there is the house of F. M. Dostoevsky, which has now become a museum.
In it, the writer and his family came for the summer, and called it nothing more than “our nest.” Here the world saw the greatest creations of the writer:
- "Demons."
- "The Brothers Karamazov".
Sketches also appeared in other novels.
Today, the two-story wooden house is part of the Novgorod Museum-Reserve, protected by law and open to the public year-round. So, if among your friends there are admirers of the genius of Fyodor Mikhailovich, you can go on vacation with a group and look into Staraya Russa.
Sanatorium "Staraya Russa"
We got here by taxi for 60 rubles and it was at the very end of the city; if you walk from the station, it will take about 40 minutes.
Entrance to the territory on weekdays is free, on weekends and holidays only 50 rubles. I was very pleased with the administration’s approach that they give city residents the opportunity to walk around the park for free, and the area there is not empty - there are also outdoor exercise equipment and good playgrounds. But then they told me that the administration was simply tired of fighting with the locals who made holes in the fence.
Now about the resort itself, in order to evaluate it you need to compare what was and what is.
The Staraya Russa sanatorium was opened in 1828. Thanks to the pine forest, dry air, mineral spring and healing mud, it has become a real pearl of the empire! Previously, Tsars and writers came here for treatment, now generals and prosecutors (their dachas are located not far from the sanatorium).
In the very center of the resort there was a huge mineral fountain, which carried useful minerals throughout the park. It was so strong that a luxurious royal dome was built around it so that it would not wet the guests.
The royal dome of the fountain
All this joy continued until the Second World War. Unfortunately, the city was completely destroyed. There is not a single whole house left in it. And after the war, the Staraya Russa sanatorium was restored in accordance with the ideas of communism and post-war opportunities: creaky beds, kefir for breakfast, and everything else is bourgeois excess.
A new Soviet dome was built around the fountain! I remember it when I was little - it was a terrible, dirty structure in which I was forced to walk. It was boring wet and disgusting!
On this trip I expected to see peeling buildings and remnants of the Soviet past. This is probably why I was very pleasantly surprised by the current state of the resort: beautiful restored buildings, polite security guards, perfect cleanliness in the park, several walking paths have been made.
Fountain today. Its value is artificially reduced
In general, I thank the administration very much. They are moving in the right direction. Everywhere there are some signs describing the growing plants and birds flying nearby. There are good playgrounds and many birdhouses. In general, the impressions are very positive!
But the Staraya Russa Sanatorium is named so for a reason; people come here for treatment. And here everything is not very good yet. In terms of prices, a week of treatment here would cost the same as a vacation in Paris, and the comfort does not even reach Egypt. Many vacationers are cunning - they rent housing in the city, and in the Sanatorium they only take procedures, this turns out to be 30-40% cheaper. Entrepreneurs have understood this and are building good hotels in the city.
Another big plus: there is a Drinking Gallery on site. You can take healing water with you for free. Entrance to all other buildings is only with electronic passes!
From such washbasins healing water flows. Bring your own bottles
One of the buildings. Swallows live under its roof
Good playgrounds, not plastic garbage
What to see in Staraya Russa and the surrounding area: life-giving spring
Near the village of Buregi, near Staraya Rusa, there is a life-giving spring famous for its healing properties.
Unfortunately, there is no reliable information about the date of discovery of this source. But it is known for sure that the unique composition of the water in it has a beneficial effect on people’s health, and examples of healing from the most severe ailments with the help of healing water have already been described. Perhaps that is why the queue never ends, and the parking lot for cars with license plates from different regions is always full.
Resurrection Cathedral
The Resurrection Cathedral can easily be considered the hallmark of the city. It is located in the very center, so it is difficult to miss. You drive along the main street, cross a wooden bridge and here on the bank of the river rises a beautiful, bright and all green building. Looks very impressive! Meanwhile, it is already more than 300 years old. Many thanks to the rector of the cathedral and everyone who serves there!
I still don’t understand what is written here
Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery
The Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery belongs to the Novgorod diocese. It rises above the Polistya River, and in ancient times bore the name “In Rus on Posad”.
The monastery was founded in the 12th century, was destroyed and burned more than once, was besieged by the Swedes and Lithuanians, but was again restored and flourished. The stronghold survived, and today Staraya Russa is unthinkable without it: sights, photos with descriptions of the Transfiguration Monastery are included in all guidebooks. Be sure to visit it, admire the architecture and interior, listen to the ringing of the bells. Beautiful, with an amazing history, it is included in the program of many Charm Travel tours. The sights of the great Novgorod include, among other things, the famous Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery.
Manor of a medieval Rushan
It deserved its place in our TOP for the hospitality of the owners, for the humor of the main builder, but the key factor is that it is located right at the exit from the sanatorium and why not actually stop by.
The estate is open from 11.00 to 18.30 without lunch and weekends and is completely free. I recommend that you leave at least 50 rubles there, or buy something, because the guys are trying very hard. Their main task is to tell the history of Staraya Russa, what people did here and how they lived. All guests are greeted with bread and salt, which they make themselves according to an old recipe. The visit time is about 15 minutes. If you come with children, they can be allowed into the pen with the chickens and rabbits. The craftsmen sell wooden horses, and he entertained us by giving different commands and pulling strings. I was very pleased.
The master sells such horses for 1000 rubles
Sights of Staraya Russa: St. George's Church
Today, any map of Staraya Russa with sights includes St. George's Church. The date of its construction dates back to the 15th century, and Archimandrite Varlaam is considered the founder.
Today it is difficult to imagine that the temple in 1740 was dismantled stone by stone to its foundations. Later, a new church building was built on the old foundation, with more spacious rooms and tall windows. Now the floors in the temple are covered with mosaics, and the paintings on the walls are made according to sketches of Vasnetsov’s paintings, the originals of which are displayed in the Vladimir Cathedral in Kyiv.
The road and first impressions of the city.
Our adventures began at the Novgorod bus station. Before departure, everyone's tickets are checked, and if you arrive 5 minutes before the bus departs, the cashier will send you to the driver, from whom you can also buy a ticket.
But this is according to the logic of normal people, but Novgorod controllers think differently. Our controller was an older woman with the appearance of a seasoned boxer. She yelled at such a late person, said that he had no right to get on the bus, but had to stand next to the bus and wait, then she said that now he needed to go back to the ticket office and buy a ticket.
As the passenger exited, he warned the driver that he would now buy a ticket and return, but as soon as he exited, the doors closed and the bus left.
These are the good employees and drivers at the Novgorod bus station. The quality of the road to Staraya Russa is very poor and it is somehow all uneven. It’s as if the kind cow from the advertisement walks there every day, making bubbles on the road. Everyone who has ever gone there knows about this, so when getting into the front seats there is a real fight. Grandmothers push everyone away and do not pay attention to any things left behind, in pursuit of a place in front (there is less motion sickness there).
Before the trip, drink something to combat motion sickness
, this will greatly brighten up the impressions of the trip.
The entire city can be walked on foot in an hour, and a taxi from the station to the farthest point costs 60 rubles. Our entire walk along Staraya Russa took 3.5 hours. During this time we walked around the whole city and had lunch.
No bullshit will be written under the bridge
Trinity Church - a 17th century landmark in Staraya Russa
Like many other Russian churches, the Church of the Holy Trinity has been tested by time. It was burned and destroyed by enemies and natural disasters, parishioners rebuilt it again, and today the landmark of Staraya Russa can be seen in an updated form.
Unfortunately, treasures of high historical value have disappeared from the temple in our time without a trace, for example:
- Image of Saint John Chrysostom.
- Altar cross made of gold.
- Silver chalice and some others.
Where to eat inexpensively and tasty
This is very important, since the average bill in a cafe here is 1000 rubles for two, and the quality of food is very low. The cafe is very smoky, and after the main restaurant "Polist" many people have food poisoning.
Locals recommended the Sadko cafe, on the square where the water tower is. The food is very tasty, the service is fast. Our bill for 2 was 300 rubles - that’s 2 brewed coffee, 2 dumplings with sour cream and 2 solyanka. We were very pleased and recommend it to you.
Brief description of the history of the city
The first chronicle mention of Ruse - as the city was called in ancient times - dates back to 1167, although archaeological excavations suggest that a settlement existed on this site since 1015. At the confluence of the rivers with the cheerful names Porusya, Polist and Pererytitsa, near the salt springs, this city was founded. It was the salt industry that made Staraya Russa a significant city in the Novgorod land, and later in the Moscow state. Over time, salt production in Staraya Russa fell into decline. The city received great support from Catherine II. By her decree, the Old Russian State Salt Plant was built here in 1771; she approved the coat of arms, which reflected salt mining as the main occupation of the townspeople. And after severe fires in 1760-1770, the empress allocated a large interest-free loan for the restoration of the city.
